Hvar has two reputations, and only one of them is earned on a sun lounger. The island the brochures sell is Hvar town in August: yachts stern to on the quay, beach clubs on the Pakleni Islands, a late table on the harbour. The other Hvar is quieter and older: a Venetian square, a 17th century theatre, a Greek field system still farmed after more than 2,400 years, lavender villages in the hills and harbour towns on the north shore where evenings end with a glass of Plavac Mali. This guide covers both.
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Quick answer: Hvar in brief
- How many days: three nights for Hvar town, the Pakleni Islands and Stari Grad; five to add Jelsa, Vrboska, the inland villages and a slow wine day.
- Best base: Hvar town for restaurants and boats; Stari Grad for calm, the UNESCO plain and the car ferry.
- Best months: June and September; late May and early October for walking and wine, with some places closed.
- Top three experiences: a private boat to the Pakleni Islands, sunset from Fortica, and a morning on the Stari Grad Plain.
- What to book ahead: hotels and boats for July and August, catamaran tickets from Split, the car ferry if you drive, and dinner tables in Hvar town.
Check prices and availability
Hvar town has the island’s widest choice of hotels, most a short walk from the harbour. Most are seasonal.
Getting there: airports, ferries and catamarans
Hvar has no commercial airport. Most visitors fly into Split Airport and continue by sea; our Split and Diocletian’s Palace guide makes a natural first or last night.
- Split to Hvar town (foot passengers): fast catamarans run by Kapetan Luka (Krilo), TP Line and Jadrolinija land right on Hvar town’s waterfront. Most sailings take around 50 to 55 minutes, some longer with stops. Book ahead in July and August.
- Split to Stari Grad (with a car): the Jadrolinija car ferry takes about two hours and docks at Stari Grad’s ferry port, outside the old town. From there Hvar town is about 20 minutes by car.
- From the Makarska Riviera: a short car ferry crosses from Drvenik to Sućuraj on Hvar’s far eastern tip, but the drive west along the narrow island is long, so it suits Jelsa more than Hvar town.
- From Italy: Jadrolinija’s Ancona to Split car ferry is the usual crossing, with a catamaran on to Hvar. The company has suspended its international sailings until 5 January 2027, so check the timetable first; our guide to Italy to Croatia by boat covers the alternatives.
Cars on the island: a car is useful for Stari Grad, Jelsa, the lavender villages and the wineries, and not at all for Hvar town, whose centre is pedestrian and whose parking fills early in summer. If you drive the old road through the Pitve tunnel to the south coast, note that it is about 1,400 metres long, unlit and narrow.
The essential sights
St Stephen’s Square, the cathedral and the theatre
Hvar town opens onto St Stephen’s Square (Pjaca), a long stone square running from the harbour to St Stephen’s Cathedral. On the harbour side stands the Arsenal, built for the Venetian galleys, with the town’s theatre above it. The theatre dates from 1612 and the town presents it as an early communal theatre open to all citizens; the exterior is original, the interior 19th century.
The Hvar Tourist Board’s 2026 listing gives the theatre as open 10:00 to 18:00 (10 euros) and the cathedral 09:00 to 12:30 and 17:00 to 19:30 (2 euros). Our research turned up contradictory information on the Arsenal: the same page lists it as closed to visitors yet includes it in a 15 euro combined ticket. It was not clear to us which applies, so check with the tourist board before you go.
Fortica (Španjola)
The 16th century fortress above town looks over the red roofs, the harbour and the whole Pakleni chain. The path climbs from the square through the old town; go early or in the last hour before closing. The tourist board’s 2026 listing gives 09:00 to 18:00 and 12 euros; hours change with the season, so check before you go.
Stari Grad and the Stari Grad Plain
Stari Grad, at the end of a long sheltered bay on the north coast, was founded by Greek colonists as Pharos in the 4th century BC. Behind it lies the Stari Grad Plain, the field system they laid out, divided by dry stone walls and still planted with vines and olives. UNESCO listed it in 2008. In town, visit Tvrdalj, the fortified summer house that the poet Petar Hektorović built in the 16th century around a fishpond; opening times are not published for 2026, so check locally.
Jelsa and Vrboska
Jelsa is a small harbour town with a café square, a good base for the east of the island. A few minutes away, Vrboska sits on a narrow inlet crossed by little bridges. Both are part of the Za križen procession, a night-long Holy Week pilgrimage between six villages that is inscribed on UNESCO’s list of intangible heritage.
The inland villages: Velo Grablje and Humac
Velo Grablje, in the hills above Hvar town, is the island’s historic lavender village, with Brusje nearby. Lavender usually flowers from June and peaks between late June and early July, depending on the weather; the Lavender Festival in Velo Grablje took place from 3 to 5 July in 2025; check 2027 dates with the Hvar Tourist Board. Further east, Humac is a shepherds’ village of stone houses about 10 km from Jelsa with no permanent residents; it fills on 26 June for the feast of its patron saints.
Charlotte’s tip: split your stay
Spend your first nights in Hvar town for the boats, Fortica and dinners, then move to Stari Grad or Jelsa for the last two. You see the island at two speeds, and the Stari Grad car ferry is on your doorstep for departure.
Hvar town’s conduct rules and fines
Hvar town introduced fines for anti social behaviour in 2017, aimed at walking the streets in swimwear or bare chested, drinking in public and similar conduct. Our research turned up contradictory information on the amounts: press reports from 2017 to 2025 cite figures from around 500 to 700 euros, and we could not find the current decision on the town’s own website. It was not clear to us which figures apply in 2026, so treat the rules simply: cover up when you leave the beach, dress modestly in churches, and do not drink in the streets. In March 2025 the town council voted to keep a summer noise limit of 85 decibels for venues.
The best experiences for a luxury traveller
A private boat to the Pakleni Islands
The Pakleni Islands sit across the mouth of Hvar town’s harbour: pine covered islets with sheltered channels, coves and beach clubs, minutes away by boat. A skippered half day covers Ždrilca, Jerolim and Palmižana on Sveti Klement, with lunch ashore. Our guide to Hvar and the Pakleni Islands by boat has five routes and the anchoring rules.
Beaches: Dubovica and the south coast
Hvar’s beaches are pebble and rock, not sand. A favourite with boat skippers and walkers is Dubovica, a pebble bay with a handful of stone houses on the south coast east of Hvar town, reached on foot down a steep path from the road (wear proper shoes) or by boat. For space in August, take a boat to the south coast coves.
Wine: Plavac Mali, Bogdanjuša and Prošek
The steep south facing slopes around Sveta Nedjelja grow Plavac Mali, Hvar’s best known red, and the island’s native white Bogdanjuša is worth asking for at tastings. Zlatan Otok is based in Sveta Nedjelja, and the Tomić family winery in Jelsa has hosted tastings in Bastijana, a stone cellar styled as a Roman dining room. We could not confirm visiting arrangements for 2026 at either estate, so check with the estate or book through a local wine tour. See our Korčula and Hvar wine guide and the wider Croatia wine guide.
Day trips
Private boats reach Vis and its sea caves in a long day, weather permitting, and Split is under an hour away by catamaran.
A sample three day itinerary
- Day 1, Hvar town: catamaran from Split in the morning. Lunch on the waterfront, the square, cathedral and theatre in the afternoon, then the climb to Fortica for the last light. Dinner in town.
- Day 2, the Pakleni Islands: private boat at 09:30, swims in the Ždrilca channel and off Jerolim, lunch on Palmižana, a south coast cove on the way back.
- Day 3, Stari Grad and the hills: drive or take a driver to Velo Grablje (in lavender season, go early), then the Stari Grad Plain and Tvrdalj. Lunch in Stari Grad, an afternoon wine tasting near Jelsa or Sveta Nedjelja, and sunset in Vrboska.
With a fourth day, add Dubovica and a slow evening in Jelsa.
Restaurants
Two of the restaurants below appear in the Michelin Guide Croatia 2026 as recommended addresses without a star: Mediterraneo in Hvar town and the restaurant at Maslina Resort in Stari Grad. No restaurant on Hvar holds a Michelin star. Many restaurants close in winter.
- Gariful, Hvar town: on the waterfront (Riva) facing the yachts, with modern Mediterranean cooking, seafood and sushi. Rated in Gault&Millau Croatia’s 2026 guide. Book for sunset.
- Mediterraneo, Hvar town: a courtyard restaurant in the old town, quieter than the harbour, recommended in the Michelin Guide Croatia 2026. Reserve in summer.
- The restaurant at Maslina Resort, Stari Grad: seasonal Mediterranean cooking at the resort on Maslinica bay, open to non residents; confirm opening with the hotel.
- Palmižana: lunch on Sveti Klement is part of a Pakleni boat day; ask your skipper which restaurants have a landing and book a table in July and August.
Best months, crowds, cruise ships and events
| Period | What to expect | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| April and May | Green hills, cool sea, many hotels and restaurants still opening | Walking, Easter processions |
| June | Warm sea, long days, lavender from mid month | Boats, lavender, couples |
| July and August | Busiest, highest prices, full quays and coves | Nightlife, beach clubs |
| September | Warm sea, harvest, fewer families | Wine, boats, a slower pace |
| October to March | Quiet, most hotels closed, cultural programme in the theatre | Locals’ Hvar |
Cruise ships: larger ships call at Hvar town in season, smaller ones at Stari Grad. We could not find an official 2026 call list, so check a port schedule site and see the square early or late on ship days.
Events: the Hvar Tourist Board lists an autumn programme for 2026, including the Paklena Regatta (31 October), Classical Guitar Days (2 to 6 November) and theatre concerts into late November.
Where to stay
Hvar’s luxury hotels are seasonal; check exact opening dates for spring and autumn trips. See also where to stay in Hvar and the best luxury hotels in Croatia.
Palace Elisabeth, Hvar Heritage Hotel
On the edge of St Stephen’s Square overlooking the harbour, with the theatre and the boats a few steps away. A five star heritage hotel revamped in 2019, with an indoor pool and a spa. Check seasonal dates with the hotel.
Best for: couples who want the historic centre at the door.
Check rates at Palace Elisabeth
Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel
On the seafront promenade of the harbour, a few minutes’ walk from the square, with a rooftop pool and a spa with sauna and gym. For winter opening, ask the hotel.
Best for: spa time after a day on the water.
Check rates at Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel
Riva Marina Hvar Hotel
Right on the waterfront in the heart of the harbour, facing the yachts, in a building that opened as a hotel in 1914 and was renovated in 2022. Guests can use the pool at sister hotel Adriana, about five minutes away. For seasonal dates, ask the hotel.
Best for: early boat departures and evenings on the quay.
Check rates at Riva Marina Hvar Hotel
Maslina Resort
In Maslinica bay, within walking distance of Stari Grad and about 20 minutes by car from Hvar town. Two heated pools, a spa with hammam and sauna, and a pebble beach. It opens from early May to mid October; confirm exact dates. Our Maslina Resort review has the detail.
Best for: a quieter stay near the Stari Grad Plain and the car ferry.
Check prices and availability
Compare more hotels and villas in Hvar town, close to the square and the boats.
Combining Hvar with Italy? The Venetian loggias and campanili will feel familiar if you have explored Venice by boat: Hvar spent centuries under the Venetian Republic, so a week in the lagoon and a week in Dalmatia make a natural pairing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Hvar only a party island?
No. The nightlife centres on Hvar town and the Pakleni beach clubs in July and August. Stari Grad, Jelsa, Vrboska and the villages are calm all season.
Do I need a car on Hvar?
Not for Hvar town, which is pedestrian. For Stari Grad, the plain, the lavender villages and wineries, a car or a driver saves time. Book the Split to Stari Grad car ferry ahead in summer.
How long is the crossing from Split?
Around 50 to 55 minutes by fast catamaran to Hvar town, and about two hours by car ferry to Stari Grad. Timetables change by season.
Can I wear swimwear in Hvar town?
No. Hvar town fines people walking in swimwear or bare chested away from the beach. Reported amounts vary, so simply cover up when you leave the water.
