Home » Lifestyle » Yacht & Charter » Croatia » Hvar and the Pakleni Islands by Boat: Coves, Beach Clubs and Day Routes (2026)

Hvar and the Pakleni Islands by Boat: Coves, Beach Clubs and Day Routes (2026)

Hvar town above the Adriatic

Hvar town’s harbour opens straight onto the Pakleni Islands, a chain of pine covered islets with sheltered channels, naturist coves and beach clubs, all within minutes of the quay. Beyond them lie Hvar’s quiet south coast, the protected island of Šćedro and the old harbour towns of Stari Grad, Jelsa and Vrboska on the north shore. Anyone who has explored Venice by boat will recognise the loggias and campanili: Hvar spent centuries under the Venetian Republic.

This article contains affiliate links. If you book through them, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Read our affiliate disclosure.

Quick answer: Hvar and the Pakleni Islands by boat

  • Best departure harbour: Hvar town for the Pakleni Islands and the south coast; Stari Grad or Vrboska for a calmer north shore start.
  • Best half day route: the Pakleni loop: Ždrilca channel, Jerolim, Stipanska and Palmižana.
  • Best full day route: Hvar’s south coast to the Red Rocks, Dubovica and Zavala, then Šćedro.
  • Best months: June and September.
  • What to book ahead: skippered boats for July and August, lunch tables on Palmižana, and a berth if you arrive by yacht.

This guide belongs to our Croatia by Boat series. The hub on Croatia yacht charter links every region; starting on the mainland? Our guide to Split by boat covers Brač, Šolta and Vis.

Check prices and availability

Hvar town is the most practical base for boat days, with the Pakleni Islands across the harbour mouth. Rooms near the waterfront go early for July and August.

See hotels in Hvar

Harbours and marinas: where boats leave from

Boats in the port of Hvar
  • Hvar town: the centre of everything. Day boats pick up along the waterfront, private yachts lie stern to on the town quay or on buoys along the west side. In high season it is crowded and every berth takes wash from ferries. From Stari Grad’s ferry port, allow about 20 minutes by car.
  • ACI Marina Palmižana: on the north east side of Sveti Klement, the largest Pakleni island, about 2.5 nautical miles from Hvar town. It has 180 berths for boats up to 30 metres and opens from 1 April to 31 October. In July and August a taxi boat runs to Hvar town.
  • Stari Grad: the car ferry port from Split (the crossing takes about two hours) and a long, sheltered bay with stone quays and laid moorings.
  • Jelsa and Vrboska: small harbours on the north shore. ACI Marina Vrboska lies in a deep, well sheltered inlet with 85 berths; the local tourist board lists it as open all year, but confirm out of season.
  • Split: for a day trip without sleeping on Hvar. Allow an hour or more each way by fast boat in calm weather; ask your skipper.

Five routes in detail

Times are rough estimates for a fast motor boat in calm seas; sailing yachts and wooden boats are slower.

1. Half day: the Pakleni loop from Hvar town

Leave the harbour and enter the Ždrilca channel on the north west side of Marinkovac, nearly a mile long and sheltered from most winds except the north, with restaurants ashore in summer. Swim off Jerolim, the islet closest to Hvar town, which is dedicated to naturism, then round to Stipanska bay, home to a large beach club and a buoyed swimming area in summer. Finish at Palmižana for lunch ashore. Allow three to four hours.

2. Half day: Palmižana, Vinogradišće and Mlini

For lunch rather than a party: head straight for Sveti Klement, take one of the paid buoys in Vinogradišće bay on its south side, and walk the short path across the island to the marina side. Swim in the Mlini cove on the way back; ask the skipper which bays are least crowded that day. Four hours, longer if lunch runs on.

3. Full day: the south coast and Šćedro

From Hvar town, run east along the steep south coast. Stop at the Red Rocks (Crvene stijene), red and white layered cliffs roughly 8 km east of town near Pišćena cove, reachable only by sea, for snorkelling below the rock face. Continue to Dubovica, a pebble bay with a handful of stone houses, then past Sveta Nedjelja, whose steep vineyards rise above the sea, to Zavala. Opposite lies Šćedro, 2.7 km offshore: anchor or take a buoy in Lovišće or Mostir bay, swim, and visit the ruins of the Dominican monastery founded at Mostir in 1465. Allow seven to eight hours.

4. Full day: Stari Grad, Vrboska and Jelsa

A gentle north shore day. Start in Stari Grad, beside the Stari Grad Plain, an ancient Greek field system listed by UNESCO. Cruise east to Vrboska, whose little canal and bridges have earned it local comparisons with Venice, then on to Jelsa for lunch on the square. About six hours.

5. Longer: Split to Hvar and back in a day

Leave early, cross the Split channel past Šolta or Brač, and stop in the Pakleni Islands for a swim at Ždrilca or Palmižana before lunch. Spend two hours in Hvar town, then return via a swim stop off southern Brač. Expect a 10 hour day. Some skippers combine Hvar with Vis and its sea caves; that is very long and depends on cave access, so plan it with our Split by boat guide.

With a week, combine routes 1, 3 and 4 with nights at Palmižana, Šćedro and Vrboska. To continue south towards Korčula and Mljet, see Dubrovnik by boat.

Rules: protected areas, Hvar town, anchoring and fees in 2026

The section to read twice. Rules come from the Ministry of the Sea and the Split harbour master, the town of Hvar and the county’s nature protection body. We could not access every official 2026 text, so we say where each rule comes from.

Protected areas

There is no national park or entry fee here. The Pakleni Islands have been protected on land as a significant landscape since 1968, managed by the county’s public institution for protected nature (Sea and Karst), and the surrounding sea is a Natura 2000 site, mainly for its Posidonia seagrass and reefs. Šćedro has the same 1968 landscape status, and its waters form Natura 2000 site HR3000119. Diving around the Mostir monastery remains is regulated. In practice: anchor on sand, never on seagrass, and use buoys where they exist. We found no published fee for these areas; check with the skipper.

Hvar town harbour: mooring and anchoring

Quay berths and west side buoys fill by midday in July and August. Our research turned up contradictory information on anchoring: one long standing sailing pilot says anchoring inside Hvar bay has not been allowed since 2010, while another cruising guide describes anchoring in the harbour area as free. It was not clear to us which applies, so confirm with the harbour office or your skipper before dropping anchor.

Behaviour rules and fines ashore

Hvar town introduced fines for anti social behaviour in 2017, aimed at walking the streets in swimwear, drinking in public and similar conduct. Our research turned up contradictory information on the amounts: press reports since 2017 cite figures from around 500 to 700 euros, and we could not find the current decision on the town’s own website. It was not clear to us which figures apply in 2026, so cover up ashore and do not drink in the streets. In March 2025 the town council voted to keep a summer noise limit of 85 decibels for venues.

Speed, distance from shore and anchoring

Croatia’s maritime navigation safety rules were updated with effect from 29 March 2025. The ordinance (NN 52/2025) was amended by NN 40/2026, published on 17 April 2026. Boats must stay off the marked boundary of a bathing area by more than 50 metres if under 15 metres long, more than 100 metres from 15 to under 30 metres, and more than 300 metres at 30 metres or more. Anchoring is banned within 150 metres of the shore of a natural bathing area, and a boat tied to the shore must not lie 70 metres or more from it (the 2026 amendment raised this from 50 metres). Published translations of the 2025 text cite a limit of 8 knots within 300 metres of the coast and in narrow channels, while other sources say speed limits are set in local harbour notices. We could not read the official text ourselves, so check current figures with the harbour master or skipper.

Fees for your own or bareboat yacht

Separately from the navigation rules, foreign owned boats pay an annual navigation safety fee, often still called the vignette, at a harbour master’s office or online through eNautics; sources differ on the length and engine thresholds, so check with the harbour master. Boats over 7 metres with sleeping berths also pay tourist tax through the official eVisitor nautical portal. Charter boats usually handle both. Mooring and buoy fees are set locally; ask on the day.

Types of boat and what a skippered charter includes

Motorboat anchored in Hvar harbour
  • Traditional wooden boat: shaded and unhurried, ideal for the Pakleni loop and Palmižana lunch.
  • RIB or speedboat: quick for the south coast and Šćedro, but bumpy when the maestral builds and short on shade.
  • Motor yacht: the comfortable choice for a day from Split, with cabin, toilet and stable seating.
  • Sailing yacht or catamaran: best for a week; catamarans sit steadier on buoys in a south easterly swell.

Usually included: skipper, boat, snorkelling gear, water and soft drinks, and fuel for an agreed route (confirm this in writing).
Often excluded: extra fuel for route changes, lunch ashore, buoy and berth fees, beach club loungers, transfers, crew meals on longer charters and gratuities.

Bareboat: Croatia requires a recognised skipper’s licence and a VHF radio operator certificate on board; the Ministry of the Sea publishes a table of foreign certificates it recognises. With busy channels and ferry wash, a local skipper is the sensible choice for a day trip.

Route comparison

Route Departure Duration Highlights Best for
Pakleni loop Hvar town Half day Ždrilca, Jerolim, Stipanska, Palmižana First boat day, beach club fans
Palmižana and Mlini Hvar town, Palmižana Half day Vinogradišće buoys, long lunch Couples, slow days
South coast and Šćedro Hvar town, Jelsa Full day Red Rocks, Dubovica, Zavala, Mostir Swimmers, quiet coves
North shore towns Stari Grad, Vrboska Full day Stari Grad, Vrboska canal, Jelsa square Culture, families
Split to Hvar day Split Long day Pakleni swim, Hvar town, Brač Split based guests

Best months, winds and practical tips

June and September offer warm water, long days and room in the coves. July and August bring the heaviest traffic: Stipanska and Ždrilca fill with boats and Palmižana lunch tables need booking. In May and October some seasonal restaurants and hotels are closed.

Winds: in summer the maestral, a north westerly, usually builds in the afternoon, so plan swims in the morning and longer crossings early. The jugo, from the south east, brings swell into exposed south facing bays and makes the west side of Hvar harbour roll. The bura, a north easterly, can arrive suddenly with hard gusts. Let your skipper decide on the day.

  • Bring: reef safe sun cream, a hat, a light cover up for going ashore, sandals for pebbles and a dry bag.
  • Seasickness: take tablets before departure and sit low and central. Mornings are calmer.
  • Booking: reserve July and August boats well ahead.
  • August: start early, and choose the south coast over the Pakleni Islands for space.

Charlotte’s tip: reverse the Pakleni crowds

Most day boats head for Stipanska and Palmižana mid morning. Ask your skipper to reverse the day: the south coast or Šćedro early while the sea is flat, then the Pakleni Islands late in the afternoon, once the day boats have gone home.

Coming from Italy? The hub on yacht charter in Italy covers the home side of the Adriatic, our guide to Italy to Croatia by boat covers the crossing itself, and the Italian coast opposite is in Puglia by boat.

Where to stay near the departure harbours

Boat sailing on the open sea

Hvar’s hotels are largely seasonal, so check dates for spring and autumn trips.

Palace Elisabeth, Hvar Heritage Hotel

On the edge of the main square overlooking the harbour, so day boats are a short walk away. A five star heritage hotel revamped in 2019, with an indoor pool and spa. It is seasonal, so check opening dates with the hotel for spring and autumn stays.

Best for: couples who want the historic centre and the harbour at the door.

Check rates at Palace Elisabeth

Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel

On the seafront promenade of Hvar harbour, a few minutes’ walk from the main square and the quay. Rooftop pool and a spa with sauna and gym. For winter opening, ask the hotel.

Best for: spa time after a day at sea.

Check rates at Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel

Riva Marina Hvar Hotel

Right on the waterfront in the heart of the harbour, facing the yachts, in a building that opened as a hotel in 1914 and was renovated in 2022. Guests can use the pool at sister hotel Adriana, about five minutes away. For seasonal dates, ask the hotel.

Best for: early departures from the quay.

Check rates at Riva Marina Hvar Hotel

Maslina Resort

In Maslinica bay, within walking distance of Stari Grad and its ferry port, and about 20 minutes by car from Hvar town. Two heated pools, a spa with hammam and sauna, and a pebble beach. Open from early May to mid October.

Best for: a quieter base for north shore routes and Split transfers.

Check rates at Maslina Resort

Check prices and availability

Compare more hotels and villas in Hvar town, a short walk from the waterfront and the Pakleni taxi boats.

See hotels in Hvar

For time ashore, see our Hvar travel guide, where to stay in Hvar, our Maslina Resort review and the wines of Korčula and Hvar.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I see the Pakleni Islands in half a day?

Yes. From Hvar town the islands are minutes away, and a half day covers Ždrilca, Jerolim, Stipanska and Palmižana with time to swim.

Is a day trip from Split to Hvar worth it?

It works on a fast, comfortable boat in calm weather, but a night on Hvar or at Palmižana is better: the islands are at their best early and late.

Can I anchor anywhere around Hvar?

No. Avoid seagrass, keep the required distances from bathing areas, use buoys in busy bays and confirm the rules for Hvar harbour itself with the harbour office, since sources disagree.

Do I need a licence to hire a boat on Hvar?

For a bareboat yacht, yes: a recognised skipper’s licence and a VHF certificate. With a skippered charter you need no licence; the skipper is responsible for the boat.

Planning more days on the water?

More about Charlotte and Elite Travel Habitat