Sardinia by Boat: La Maddalena, the Costa Smeralda and the Best Day Charters (2026)

Northeast Sardinia is granite country, and that is what makes its water so striking. Pink and grey boulders drop into shallows that shift from white sand to turquoise to deep blue within a few boat lengths, and the La Maddalena archipelago, a national park, scatters its islands across the Strait of Bonifacio. To the south, Tavolara rises straight out of a marine reserve. Distances are short, so even a half day can include two or three swim stops. The catch: this is one of the most regulated stretches of sea in Italy, and the rules tightened again in 2026.

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This guide is part of our Italy by Boat series. For golf and Vermentino too, see Sardinia for yacht, wine and golf.

Harbours and marinas: where the boats leave from

Olbia airport sits in the middle of this coast. Drive times are approximate and assume no summer traffic.

• Porto Cervo: the Costa Smeralda’s main yacht harbour, below the Piazzetta. Best for larger yachts and guests staying on the Costa Smeralda. About 40 to 45 minutes from the airport.
• Cannigione: on the sheltered Gulf of Arzachena, about 20 minutes by car from Porto Cervo. The short crossing to Caprera leaves more time at anchor.
• Palau: the closest mainland port to La Maddalena and its ferry. Best for heading straight to the park. Roughly 45 to 50 minutes from the airport.
• Porto Rotondo: a smaller marina on the Gulf of Cugnana, about 20 to 25 minutes from the airport, between the Cala di Volpe coast and Tavolara.
• Olbia and Porto San Paolo: Olbia suits arrival and departure days; Porto San Paolo, south of Olbia, faces Tavolara and is the obvious start for the marine reserve.

The harbour matters more than the boat: the northern islands are much closer to Palau or Cannigione than to Porto Cervo.

Four routes in detail

Sailing times are rough estimates for a motorboat at moderate speed; a sailing yacht takes longer. Your skipper will adjust the plan to the wind.

Route 1: Costa Smeralda anchorages (half day, from Porto Cervo or Porto Rotondo)

Head south to Cala di Volpe, Capriccioli, Romazzino and Liscia Ruja. Offshore, the low islands of Mortorio and Soffi have pale sand and clear shallows for swimming. Allow around 20 to 40 minutes between stops. It is the most relaxed route, often sheltered and easy to cut short, with lunch usually on board.

Route 2: Caprera and Spargi (half or short full day, from Cannigione or Palau)

Cross to Caprera, linked to La Maddalena by a causeway, and anchor on sand off its coves. Cala Coticcio on Caprera is visited on land with an authorised environmental hiking guide and a small park contribution, not by swimming ashore from a yacht. Continue to Spargi for Cala Corsara, one of the park’s best known sights. From Cannigione, allow roughly 30 to 45 minutes for the first crossing. For lunch ashore, book a table in La Maddalena town around the old port of Cala Gavetta.

Route 3: The northern islands and Budelli (full day, from Palau, Cannigione or Porto Cervo)

The classic full day: Spargi, then north to Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria, where the passage known as Porto della Madonna is famous for its colour. The Spiaggia Rosa on Budelli is closed: no landing, swimming or anchoring. You see it from the water, or from nearby Spiaggia del Cavaliere with a park guide. Swim stops are usually on Santa Maria or Razzoli. From Palau, budget about an hour to the northern islands with stops; from Porto Cervo, considerably more. Plan around eight hours, with lunch on board.

Route 4: Tavolara and Molara (half or full day, from Porto San Paolo, Olbia or Porto Rotondo)

South of Olbia, the Tavolara and Punta Coda Cavallo marine protected area covers Tavolara, Molara and the coast to Capo Coda Cavallo. The sandy spit of Spalmatore di Terra on Tavolara is the usual landing and swim stop, and the shallow Piscine di Molara a popular anchorage. From Porto San Paolo, Tavolara is minutes away, so a half day is enough; from Porto Rotondo, plan a full day. This side is often calmer when the maestrale blows.

Longer: two to four days island hopping

With a crewed cabin yacht, combine routes 1 to 3 over two to four days, with nights in La Maddalena or Palau or at an anchorage where rules allow; overnight anchoring is not permitted everywhere, so let the skipper choose. A crossing to Corsica means French rules, so agree it in writing.

The rules: parks, reserves, anchoring and fees

Sources: the national park, the 2026 Coast Guard ordinance as reported, the Tavolara regulation and the regional tourism board. Rules can change mid season; check with the park or skipper.

La Maddalena National Park

• Authorisation: recreational boats need a park permit, bought on the park’s online platform and paid via PagoPA, priced by boat length and duration. The park gives 5 per cent off online and 40 per cent off for sailing boats; boats without a permit face a fine and a 40 per cent surcharge. Kayaks, pedalos and windsurf boards are exempt. A professional skipper normally arranges it.
• Where the permit applies: our research turned up contradictory information here: the park’s English permit page refers to sailing, mooring or anchoring within 300 metres of the coast, while other 2026 summaries say any use of park waters. It was not clear to us which applies, so buy the permit before entering park waters.
• Speed limits (1 June to 30 September): 7 knots within 500 metres of the coast and 10 knots between 500 and 1,000 metres, under the Coast Guard ordinance for the 2026 and 2027 seasons.
• Anchoring: banned on Posidonia seagrass and sensitive habitats, allowed only on sand or mud, and prohibited in mapped areas including around Spiaggia Rosa, Passo degli Asinelli and parts of Santa Maria. Buoy fields follow separate park rules.
• Other: waters at Cala Corsara, Cala Coticcio and Spiaggia del Cavaliere are reserved mainly for passenger boats; no discharge of black or grey water; no taking of sand or shells.
• Rental and charter in 2026: in July 2026 the park approved stricter transitional rules for rental and skippered charter: capped authorisations, a maximum of 12 passengers per boat, a daily access cap reported at 2,500 and no combustion engines in beach launch corridors. Ask any operator to confirm its 2026 authorisation.

Tavolara and Punta Coda Cavallo marine protected area

• Zone A: no navigation, mooring, anchoring or swimming; boundaries are on the official reserve map.
• Zones B and C: motorboats at 5 knots within 300 metres of the coast, 10 knots from 300 to 600 metres. No jet skis.
• Anchoring: never on Posidonia. In zone B, boats up to 30 metres on sand or pebbles (up to 40 metres in a defined area at the Piscine di Molara); in zone C, up to 40 metres, with larger yachts only at defined points off La Cinta and Spalmatore di Terra.
• Buoys: mooring fields require authorisation, one boat per buoy.

Beach zones and closures

The Olbia harbour office’s beach safety ordinance reserves a strip for swimmers, 200 metres from sandy beaches and 100 metres from rocky shores, with buoyed corridors for boats. We could only see the 2024 version, so check the current one with the harbour. Naval exercises occasionally close areas near Caprera; your skipper will know.

Types of boat and what a charter includes

• Rigid inflatable (gommone): fast, little shade; good for couples and short crossings.
• Day cruiser: sun deck, bimini, small cabin; the usual family half day boat.
• Wooden gozzo: slow and comfortable, ideal for the Costa Smeralda anchorages.
• Sailing yacht or catamaran: steadier at anchor, lower park fee, slower to the northern islands.
• Crewed motor yacht: for full and multi day trips, with cabins and a tender.

Typically included: the boat, a licensed skipper, fuel for a standard route, towels, water and soft drinks, often snorkelling masks. Often extra: fuel for longer routes, lunch, marina or buoy fees, the park authorisation, a hostess and hotel transfers. Get it in writing with the route.

Licence-free hire: in Italy you need no licence for engines up to 30 kW (about 40.8 hp) within 6 nautical miles of the coast, from age 16 for boats up to 10 metres and 18 above. Jet skis always need a licence. In La Maddalena, the 2026 rental caps apply, so a skippered boat is usually simpler.

Routes compared

Best months, the maestrale and practical tips

When to go: June and September combine warm water with fewer boats. Late May and early October are quieter, but some boats and hotels are closed. In August the busiest anchorages fill by late morning, so book early and leave early.

The maestrale: the northwest wind funnels through the Strait of Bonifacio and can make the northern islands rough for days. The Gulf of Arzachena, the Costa Smeralda anchorages and Tavolara are then often the better choice. Keep a spare day.

What to bring: reef-friendly sun cream, a hat that ties on, a light layer, water shoes for granite and a soft bag.

Seasickness: take a remedy beforehand and prefer a larger hull or catamaran.

Transfers: see our Italy travel planner.

Where to stay near the harbours

Cervo Hotel, Costa Smeralda Resort (Porto Cervo)

Above the Piazzetta and Porto Cervo marina, so you walk to the boat. All 80 rooms have balconies, plus a freshwater pool and a boat to a private beach from late May. It opened its 2026 season on 27 March; ask the hotel for the closing date.

Best for: travellers who want the marina on foot.

Check rates at Cervo Hotel

Hotel Cala di Volpe, a Luxury Collection Hotel (Porto Cervo)

Jacques Couëlle’s landmark stands on the Cala di Volpe bay on Route 1, about 15 minutes by car from Porto Cervo marina, with a Shiseido spa and a Mouratoglou tennis centre. It opened its 2026 season on 16 April. Read our Hotel Cala di Volpe review.

Best for: guests who want yachts in view from the terrace.

Check rates at Hotel Cala di Volpe

Romazzino, A Belmond Hotel, Costa Smeralda (Porto Cervo)

Reopened under Belmond in 2024, with phased renovation, it sits on its own beach around ten minutes by car from Porto Cervo, with fresh and saltwater pools and a spa. Confirm season dates.

Best for: couples who want a beach day between boat days.

Check rates at Romazzino

Baglioni Resort Sardinia (San Teodoro)

Opened in 2021 near San Teodoro, close to Olbia airport and a short drive from Porto San Paolo for Tavolara. Three outdoor pools, a spa and Lu Impostu beach about 350 metres away on foot. Ask the hotel about season dates.

Best for: a Tavolara base with an easy airport run. For more tennis-friendly options on the island, see tennis hotels in Sardinia.

Check rates at Baglioni Resort Sardinia

A note on the south: Villasimius

The Capo Carbonara marine protected area off Villasimius has similar rules: no anchoring in zone A (including areas around the Isola dei Cavoli and part of Serpentara), 5 knots within 300 metres of the coast in zone B, anchoring only on sand or pebbles. Check 2026 rules with the reserve. Our Forte Village review covers a southern base.

Across the strait: Corsica’s Lavezzi Islands lie just north of La Maddalena. See Bonifacio by Boat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I land on the Spiaggia Rosa in Budelli?

No. Landing, swimming and anchoring are prohibited; view it from the water.

Do I need a permit for La Maddalena National Park?

Yes, an authorisation bought online. Skippered charters usually arrange it; ask whether the fee is included.

Which harbour is best for a day in La Maddalena?

Palau or Cannigione, for the shortest crossing.

Can I hire a boat without a licence?

Yes, up to 30 kW and within 6 nautical miles of the coast. In park waters, check the operator’s 2026 authorisation.