South of the Amalfi Coast and the temples of Paestum, the coast of Campania turns wilder. The Cilento is a national park as much as a holiday coast: limestone cliffs full of sea caves around Capo Palinuro, maquis running down to coves near Marina di Camerota, and two marine protected areas, off Castellabate and along the Costa degli Infreschi e della Masseta. Acciaroli, Pioppi and Pisciotta still feel like fishing villages. By boat you reach coves with no road access, but the protected stretches have detailed rules, and a skipper who knows them matters more than a bigger boat.
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Quick answer: the Cilento by boat
- Best departure harbour: Palinuro for the sea caves; Marina di Camerota for the Infreschi. Both sit within an hour or so of each other by sea.
- Best half day route: A Capo Palinuro loop: the Grotta Azzurra, the smaller caves of the cape and a swim stop near the Arco Naturale.
- Best full day route: Palinuro to the Baia degli Infreschi, with a swim off the Buon Dormire bay and lunch in Marina di Camerota.
- Best months: June and September.
- Book ahead: Boat and skipper, lunch tables in Palinuro and Marina di Camerota in July and August, and hotels near the harbour.
Check prices and availability
Upscale rooms near Palinuro harbour are limited and summer weekends fill early.
This guide is part of our Italy by boat series. For the coast further north, see our guides to the Amalfi Coast by boat and Capri by boat.
Harbours and marinas: where boats leave from
The nearest airports are Naples and Salerno Costa d’Amalfi at Pontecagnano (check current flights). Drive times are rough estimates in light traffic.
- Agropoli: the main harbour at the northern end, roughly 30 to 40 minutes from Salerno airport and an hour and a half from Naples airport. Best for Punta Licosa and guests staying around Paestum.
- San Marco di Castellabate: a small harbour next to Santa Maria di Castellabate. Best for short trips to Punta Licosa.
- Acciaroli: a fishing harbour near Pioppi. Best for a quieter start.
- Palinuro: on the north side of the cape, close to town, around two and a half hours from Naples airport. Best for the sea caves and a first visit.
- Marina di Camerota: the closest departure point for the Baia degli Infreschi and the Masseta coast.
- Scario and Sapri: on the Gulf of Policastro at the southern end. Scario suits the Masseta coast; Sapri suits travellers coming from Maratea or Calabria.
For larger yachts, ask the harbour office about berths and depth before planning a night stop.
The best routes in detail
Times assume a fast boat in calm conditions; a gozzo is slower.
Route 1: Capo Palinuro caves (half day, 3 to 4 hours, from Palinuro)
The Grotta Azzurra, on the north side of the cape, is the headline: light enters through an underwater opening and turns the water intense blue. Nearby are the Grotta d’Argento, the Grotta dei Monaci and the Grotta delle Ossa. Beyond the cape come Cala Fetente, where hydrothermal springs give the water a sulphurous smell, and the Arco Naturale near the Mingardo river mouth; its beach has been reported closed for rockfall risk, so see it from the water.
Lunch: back in Palinuro, or extend the morning into Route 2.
Route 2: Palinuro to the Infreschi (full day, 6 to 8 hours, from Palinuro)
After the caves, head east to the Baia del Buon Dormire, a bay walled by rock with the Scoglio del Coniglio offshore. Its beach has been reported closed for landslide risk, but boats stop to swim; check the status with the skipper. Continue past Marina di Camerota and Lentiscelle to Cala Bianca, then into the Baia degli Infreschi, where freshwater springs cool the surface of the sea. This is a long run for a gozzo; a faster boat suits it better.
Lunch: in Marina di Camerota on the way back, or on board.
Route 3: Marina di Camerota, the Infreschi and the Masseta (half or full day, from Marina di Camerota or Scario)
The Infreschi are roughly 15 minutes from Marina di Camerota in good conditions. A half day covers Cala Bianca and the Infreschi; a full day continues along the Masseta to the beaches of San Marcellino, the Sciabica and the Gabbiani, reachable only on foot or by sea. From Scario, do it in reverse. All of this lies inside the marine protected area.
Lunch: there are no bars or kiosks at the Infreschi. Bring a picnic or return to Marina di Camerota or Scario.
Route 4: Punta Licosa and Castellabate (half day, from Agropoli, San Marco di Castellabate or Acciaroli)
The low, green headland of Punta Licosa ends in the islet of Licosa, with clear water and a largely undeveloped coast. From Agropoli the run passes Santa Maria di Castellabate; from San Marco or Acciaroli it is shorter. Pair it with the temples of Paestum.
Lunch: ashore in Santa Maria di Castellabate, San Marco or Acciaroli.
Route 5: Three days along the coast (from Agropoli or Palinuro)
On a skippered yacht: Punta Licosa and a night in Acciaroli; Pioppi, Pisciotta and Capo Palinuro with a night in Palinuro; then Marina di Camerota, the Infreschi and Scario or Sapri. Night stops depend on berths, and night anchoring is restricted in the Infreschi area. Heading further south, our guide to Tropea and the Costa degli Dei by boat covers the next stretch of coast.
Rules: marine protected areas, anchoring and fees
Both marine protected areas are managed by the Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park. The rules below come from the official regulations of the environment ministry and the park; details change each season, so confirm with the skipper, the park or the harbour office.
Costa degli Infreschi e della Masseta
- Zones: in zone A, navigation, anchoring and swimming are not permitted. In zones B and C, motor boats must travel in displacement mode at a maximum of 5 knots within 300 m of the coast and 10 knots between 300 m and 600 m.
- Caves: private boats may not enter caves anywhere in the protected area; only authorised tour and hire boats up to 12 m may go in, and only under oars or electric power.
- Jet skis: jet skis, water skiing and similar sports are banned in the whole area.
- Mooring buoys: from 1 May to 30 September there are buoy fields at Cala Bianca and in the Baia degli Infreschi. Swimming is not allowed inside the buoy fields, and boats must leave if wind exceeds 6 knots or waves exceed 0.5 m.
- Anchoring: only in marked areas such as Cala Bianca, Cala Fortuna, Cala Moresca and Cala Morti, with engine and generator off, no detergents and no music. At night (22:00 to 08:00) a qualified person must stay on board.
- Swimming in the Infreschi: one area of the bay, marked by red buoys, is closed to swimmers while a Posidonia seagrass restoration project is under way.
- Charter boats: under the park’s 2026 rules, hire and charter is limited to 80 authorised boats with up to 12 passengers each. Ask whether your boat holds a 2026 authorisation.
- Fees: in the 2025 rules, a visiting boat under 10 m paid the park €25 a day for a buoy in May, June and September, €50 in July and €70 in August; larger boats pay more. Check 2026 figures with the park.
Beach limits: a park ordinance of 2014 caps the number of people on each beach in the area; the Infreschi beach is limited to 67 people at a time. Our research turned up contradictory information on time limits: a 2026 beach guide says visitors may stay a maximum of one hour, while the park ordinance we checked sets a numerical cap but no time limit. It was not clear to us which applies, so check with the skipper or the harbour.
Santa Maria di Castellabate
- Zone A: the strict reserve covers the sea off the coast between Punta Tresino and Vallone Maroccia, where only rescue, surveillance and authorised research are permitted.
- Speed: in zone B, motor boats are limited to 5 knots within 300 m of the coast and 10 knots, in displacement mode, between 300 m and 600 m.
- Licosa: a 50 m strip off the west coast of the islet of Licosa has stricter rules; your skipper will know where to stop.
- Anchoring: allowed outside areas marked as sensitive. Jet skis and similar craft are not permitted anywhere in the protected area.
Palinuro and the rest of the coast
Capo Palinuro is not in either marine protected area, but local harbour ordinances cover swimmer zones, speed near beaches and cave visits. Check with the skipper or Palinuro harbour office.
Types of boat and what a skippered charter includes
- Gozzo: the traditional wooden boat, slow and steady; ideal for the Palinuro caves.
- RIB: fast and stable, practical for Route 2.
- Cabin cruiser: shade, a toilet and a cabin; useful for a full day.
- Sailing yacht or catamaran: best for several days.
A private skippered charter typically includes boat, skipper and often snorkelling gear and soft drinks. Fuel may be included for a set route or charged on top, especially on fast boats. Lunch ashore, mooring and park fees are usually extra. Ask for a written list.
Licence-free hire: in Italy, you can drive a boat without a licence within 6 nautical miles of the coast if the engine does not exceed 30 kW (about 40.8 hp), with additional engine size limits. In the protected areas, a local skipper is the safer option.
Routes compared
| Route | Departure | Duration | Highlights | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Capo Palinuro caves | Palinuro | 3 to 4 hours | Grotta Azzurra, Cala Fetente, Arco Naturale | First visit, families |
| Palinuro to the Infreschi | Palinuro | 6 to 8 hours | Caves, Buon Dormire, Cala Bianca, Infreschi | The full coast in one day |
| Infreschi and Masseta | Marina di Camerota or Scario | Half or full day | Protected coves, beaches without road access | Swimmers, nature lovers |
| Punta Licosa | Agropoli, San Marco, Acciaroli | Half day | Licosa islet, Castellabate coast | Combining with Paestum |
| Three days along the coast | Agropoli or Palinuro | 3 days | Licosa, Pisciotta, Palinuro, Infreschi | Couples on a skippered yacht |
Best months, winds and practical tips
June and September bring warm water, quieter coves and easier lunch bookings. July is settled but busy. August is the peak: Palinuro and Marina di Camerota fill up, the Infreschi beach can hit its cap and berths are scarce. The Infreschi buoy fields operate only from 1 May to 30 September.
Summer breezes are usually light, but southerly or westerly swell can rule out caves on the exposed side of the cape. Do not push for a cave the skipper declines.
- What to bring: reef-safe sunscreen, a hat, a light layer, water shoes and cash.
- Seasickness: go in the morning, sit mid-boat and take any remedy before boarding.
- Booking timing: for July and August, book the boat weeks ahead and hotels earlier.
- Wine: see our Campania wine guide.
Charlotte’s tip: split the coast into two days
Rather than one long run, book a morning gozzo from Palinuro for the cape and a separate half day from Marina di Camerota for the Infreschi. Less transit, the right boat for each stretch, and the second day can move if the swell rises.
Where to stay near the harbours
Grand Hotel San Pietro, Palinuro
A four-star hotel on Corso Pisacane, a few minutes from the piazza and a short drive from the harbour, with a panoramic pool, terraces facing Capo Palinuro, sea-view junior suites and a pergola restaurant. It lists a private beach and boat trips to the Grotta Azzurra. Ask the hotel about opening months.
Best for: the Palinuro caves and Route 2, with the harbour close by.
Check rates at Grand Hotel San Pietro
Palazzo Belmonte, Santa Maria di Castellabate
A 17th-century hunting lodge of the Princes of Belmonte, part still lived in by the family, in gardens above the sea, with a path to a private beach, a pool and a panoramic terrace. San Marco harbour is a few minutes by car. Ask the hotel about seasonal opening.
Best for: Route 4 and a slower, historic stay.
Check rates at Palazzo Belmonte
Savoy Hotel & Spa, Paestum
A Preferred Hotels & Resorts member near the sea, still listed on some booking sites as Savoy Beach Hotel, with a private beach, indoor and outdoor pools, a spa and the Tre Olivi restaurant. The temples are roughly 3 km away; Agropoli harbour is around 15 to 20 minutes by car. Confirm star rating and season with the hotel.
Best for: combining Paestum with Punta Licosa from Agropoli.
Check rates at Savoy Hotel & Spa
Santavenere Hotel, Maratea
Just over the border in Basilicata, this five-star Leading Hotels of the World member has 34 rooms, a spa, pools and three restaurants, one by the sea near the hotel pier (check its opening dates with the hotel). Sapri is roughly 25 to 30 minutes by road.
Best for: the Gulf of Policastro, Scario and the Masseta from the south.
Check rates at Santavenere Hotel
Check prices and availability
Compare hotels near Palinuro harbour before fixing boat dates.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you go inside the Grotta Azzurra at Palinuro by boat?
In calm conditions small boats visit it, but entry depends on swell and local rules. The skipper decides.
Can you swim at the Baia degli Infreschi?
Yes, except inside the buoy fields and the red-buoyed seagrass restoration area. The beach is capped at 67 people, so arrive early.
Do I need a licence to hire a boat in the Cilento?
Not for engines up to 30 kW (about 40.8 hp) within 6 nautical miles of the coast, but park rules still apply.
Is the Cilento a good alternative to the Amalfi Coast by boat?
It suits travellers who prefer nature and quiet harbours to glamour. Many combine both, adding Ischia and Procida or Pompeii and Herculaneum on the way south.
Planning more of southern Italy by boat?
