Between Corfu and Paxos, cypress and olive trees run down to the shore, the northeast coast of Corfu looks across a narrow channel to the mountains of Albania, and further south the small islands of Paxos and Antipaxos hide sea caves, stone arches and coves of startling turquoise. The strong summer meltemi of the Cyclades largely passes the Ionian by, so calm mornings on the water are common. Venice ruled Corfu for around four centuries, and the heel of Italy lies just across the Strait of Otranto. This guide covers harbours, five routes, the rules that matter in 2026, what a skippered charter includes and where to stay.
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Quick answer: Corfu, Paxos and Antipaxos by boat
- Best departure harbour: Gouvia Marina for most east coast hotels; Benitses or Lefkimmi if Paxos is the goal.
- Best half day route: the northeast coast to Kouloura, Kalami and Agni, with lunch at a waterside taverna.
- Best full day route: the west coast caves of Paxos and the Tripitos arch, a swim at Voutoumi on Antipaxos, a late lunch in Gaios.
- Best months: June and September.
- What to book ahead: a skipper and boat for July and August, lunch tables on Paxos, and hotel rooms near your departure harbour.
This guide is part of our Greece by Boat series. The hub on Greece yacht charter links every island group, from the Ionian to the Cyclades.
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Corfu is the natural base for Paxos and Antipaxos, with an international airport and several harbours. The best hotels near the marinas fill early for July and August.
Harbours and marinas: where boats leave from

- Gouvia Marina: the largest base on the island, with around 1,200 berths in a sheltered bay about 7 km north of Corfu Town and roughly 15 minutes by car from the airport. Ideal for Kommeno, Dassia and Gouvia.
- Corfu Town old port and Mandraki: Mandraki is the small harbour beneath the Old Fortress, home to the local sailing club. Corfu Town is also the port of entry for boats arriving from outside the EU.
- Kassiopi: a harbour village on the northeast tip below a ruined castle, the closest start for Kalami, Agni and Kouloura. Allow around 45 minutes by car from the airport.
- Benitses: a small harbour south of Corfu Town, roughly 20 minutes from the airport, which shortens the run to Paxos for hotels in Benitses and Moraitika.
- Lefkimmi: in the far south, the shortest crossing to Paxos and a ferry port for Gaios. Allow up to an hour by car from the airport.
- Paleokastritsa: on the west coast, where small local boats leave from the beach for the sea caves.
Five routes in detail

Times assume a fast motor boat in calm conditions. As a reference, Gouvia to Paxos is around 30 nautical miles: about six hours under sail, well under two by fast motor boat.
1. Half day: the northeast coast
From Kassiopi or Gouvia, follow the coast where wooded hills drop into the sea and the Albanian shore is clearly visible. Kouloura is a tiny horseshoe harbour framed by cypresses; Kalami is the bay where Lawrence Durrell lived in the White House, now a taverna; Agni is a small cove whose tavernas are often reached directly from the water. From Kassiopi this takes three to four hours with lunch; from Gouvia add around 40 minutes each way.
2. Half day: Corfu Town from the sea
A gentle first outing. Leave Gouvia, pass the island of Vidos, round the Old Fortress for the view of the town walls, and continue past the Mon Repos estate to Kanoni and Mouse Island (Pontikonisi). The coastal waters from Kanoni south to Messonghi are a Natura 2000 site, so cruise slowly. Allow two to three hours with a swim.
3. Full day: Paxos and Antipaxos
The classic day, feasible by fast motor boat from Gouvia, Benitses or Lefkimmi in settled weather. Run down the high west coast of Paxos past the cliffs of Erimitis, nose into the large Ypapanti cave, pass the rock needle of Ortholithos and the Tripitos arch, then cross to Antipaxos for a long swim at Voutoumi or Vrika, bays of pale sand with tavernas above. Return via Gaios, the main harbour of Paxos, sheltered by two islets. Allow around an hour to Paxos from Benitses, longer from Gouvia, and a full eight hours on the water.
4. Short trip: Paleokastritsa and the west coast caves
The bays around Paleokastritsa are known for the Nausicaa and Blue Eye caves and the monastery on the headland. Local boats leave from the beach for trips of about 40 minutes; reaching the west coast by private boat from Gouvia means a long run around the north, so most visitors drive over. Mornings are best, before the northwesterly builds. In September 2019 a rockfall at Chomi, near Liapades just south of Paleokastritsa, injured a young tourist on the beach and the port authority evacuated the area. We could not confirm whether any lasting restriction on boats was issued, so ask the skipper or the Paleokastritsa port police before approaching the cliffs there.
5. Two or three days: Paxos at a slower pace
With a skippered yacht, spend a night in Gaios or at anchor in Mongonisi Bay in the south, a second in Lakka, a round bay in the north, and stop for lunch in Loggos, a small fishing harbour on the east coast. Visit Antipaxos early, before the excursion boats, and break the return at Lefkimmi or Benitses. Space in Gaios and Lakka is tight in July and August, so arrive early in the afternoon. For a longer week, continue south: see Lefkada, Meganisi and Scorpios by boat.
Rules: protected areas, anchoring, borders and closures
Greek rules are set nationally and supplemented each season by local port authorities, so details change yearly.
- Natura 2000 sites: Paxos, Antipaxos and the surrounding sea form a Natura 2000 site (GR2230004) under the Natural Environment and Climate Change Agency (NECCA), as do the coastal waters from Kanoni to Messonghi (GR2230005) and the Diapontia islands northwest of Corfu. Anchor on sand, never on seagrass, and ask the skipper about local restrictions.
- Monk seals: a small colony of Mediterranean monk seals lives along the rocky coasts of Paxos. Keep your distance and never follow one into a cave.
- Sea caves: Greece’s official tourism site notes that the Paxos caves need caution and experienced handling in westerly winds. Leave the decision to enter to the skipper.
- Swimming zones and speed: port authorities set minimum distances and speed limits near beaches and buoyed swimming areas. Check the current Corfu and Paxos rules with the skipper or port police.
- Albania: the North Corfu Channel is only about a mile wide at its narrowest. Do not cross into Albanian waters or land at Sarandë on a day charter. Entry requires clearance at a port of entry, and the RYA advises that an agent is effectively essential; leaving Greece has its own formalities, so ask the port police.
- Fees: marinas and some town quays charge berthing fees, usually paid by the operator or added to your bill on a skippered charter. Private yachts may also be liable for the Greek cruising tax (TEPAI), paid online.
- Closures in 2026: we found no officially announced beach or cave closures for Corfu or Paxos in 2026, but rockfall closures can be issued at short notice. Ask the port police on the day.
Voutoumi gets very busy with excursion boats in high summer; local press reported a collision between two tourist boats there in August 2026.
Types of boat and what a skippered charter includes
A RIB or speedboat is ideal for the northeast coast and the fastest way to Paxos in calm water, but offers little shade. A motor yacht with a cabin gives shade, a toilet and a smoother crossing. A sailing yacht or catamaran suits two or more days with overnight stops.
- Usually included: the boat, the skipper, basic insurance, water and soft drinks, snorkelling masks.
- Often extra: fuel (frequently charged separately on motor boats), lunch ashore, harbour and mooring fees, a hostess or chef on larger boats, and a tip for the crew.
- Bareboat: Greek port authorities expect the skipper of a bareboat yacht to hold a recognised licence, and the International Certificate of Competence (ICC) is widely accepted. Our research turned up contradictory information on the second crew member: some sources say a second person with competent crew experience is enough, others say a second licence is required. It was not clear to us which applies in 2026, so confirm with the charter base and the Hellenic Coast Guard before you book.
Route comparison
| Route | Departure | Duration | Highlights | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Northeast coast | Kassiopi, Gouvia | Half day | Kouloura, Kalami, Agni | First timers, lunch by the water |
| Corfu Town from the sea | Gouvia, Mandraki | 2 to 3 hours | Old Fortress, Vidos, Mouse Island | Families, arrival day |
| Paxos and Antipaxos | Benitses, Lefkimmi, Gouvia | Full day | Ypapanti cave, Tripitos, Voutoumi, Gaios | Swimmers, couples |
| Paleokastritsa caves | Paleokastritsa beach | About 40 minutes | Nausicaa and Blue Eye caves | West coast stays |
| Paxos at a slower pace | Gouvia | 2 to 3 days | Lakka, Loggos, Mongonisi, Antipaxos | Sailing yachts, slow travel |
Best months, winds and practical tips

June and September offer warm water and fewer boats; July and August are hottest and busiest, with Antipaxos crowded from late morning. In late May and October the sea is cooler and some Antipaxos tavernas may be closed, so ask before planning lunch there.
The Ionian maistro, a northwesterly sea breeze, typically builds from around midday and eases towards evening, which is why skippers like early starts for Paxos and the west coast. The meltemi, the strong northerly of July and August, belongs to the Aegean and the Cyclades. The Corfu channel can still turn choppy when wind funnels through. In unsettled weather, the northeast coast is the sheltered alternative.
- Bring: a hat, reef safe sun cream, a light long sleeved layer, water shoes for pebbles, cash for tavernas, and passports for overnight stops.
- Seasickness: sit at the back of a fast boat and cross to Paxos in the morning.
- Booking timing: reserve several months ahead for July and August; a few weeks usually suffices in June and September.
- August crowds: reach Antipaxos before the excursion boats or late in the afternoon, and book lunch in Gaios and Lakka.
Charlotte’s tip: do Paxos in reverse
Most day boats from Corfu head straight for Antipaxos and reach Voutoumi together. Ask the skipper to visit the Paxos caves first, while the sea is flat, then swim at Antipaxos in the late afternoon once the crowds have gone, and finish with an early dinner in Gaios. Agree a sheltered fallback on the northeast coast of Corfu in case the wind turns.
Where to stay near the departure harbours
Most resorts close in winter, so check opening dates before you book.
Corfu Imperial, A Grecotel Resort to Live
At the tip of the Kommeno peninsula above olive groves, a short drive across the bay from Gouvia Marina. Private beach coves, villas with pools, the Elixir Spa and a beach bar. The resort did not open for the 2026 season and says it will reopen for summer 2027, so check dates before you book. Ask the hotel whether boats can collect guests from its shore.
Best for: the quickest start from Gouvia.
Ikos Dassia
A beachfront resort at Dassia, a few kilometres north of Gouvia Marina and around 20 minutes from the airport. The ultra all inclusive concept covers several à la carte restaurants, a spa with indoor and outdoor pools, tennis and non motorised water sports.
Best for: families who want everything arranged between boat days.
Angsana Corfu
On a hillside at Benitses, a few minutes from Benitses harbour, the shortest east coast start for Paxos. It has 159 rooms and suites plus 37 pool villas, an infinity pool, a heated indoor pool, a spa and around ten food and beverage venues. Ask the hotel about arranging boat trips to Paxos and Antipaxos.
Best for: Paxos day trips with spa time on rest days.
Domes Miramare, a Luxury Collection Resort, Corfu
An adults only resort in the old part of Moraitika, south of Benitses, with private beach access, a spa and tennis. Benitses harbour is a short drive north and Lefkimmi further south; ask the hotel about boat pick ups from its beach.
Best for: couples using the southern harbours.
Agali Hotel Paxos
For a night on Paxos itself: a smaller hotel on a bay about 1.5 km from Gaios, with a beach, pool, beach bar and restaurant. Ask the hotel about season dates.
Best for: a slower stay and early starts to Antipaxos.
Check rates at Agali Hotel Paxos
Check prices and availability
Compare hotels across Corfu, from Kommeno and Dassia near Gouvia to Benitses and Moraitika for the Paxos crossing.
Arriving from Italy? Our guide to Italy to Greece by boat covers the crossing, and Puglia by boat makes a natural first leg before Corfu.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you do Paxos and Antipaxos as a day trip from Corfu?
Yes, by fast motor boat in settled weather. From Benitses the crossing takes around an hour; from Gouvia, Paxos is about 30 nautical miles away, so plan a full day. A sailing yacht needs two days or more.
Do I need a licence to hire a boat on Corfu?
Not on a skippered charter. For a bareboat yacht the skipper needs a recognised licence such as the ICC; second crew requirements vary by source, so confirm with the charter base and the Hellenic Coast Guard.
Can I visit Albania by boat from Corfu?
Not on an informal day trip. Entry requires clearance at a port of entry such as Sarandë, usually through an agent, plus Greek exit formalities. Ask the port police.
When is the sea calmest around Corfu and Paxos?
Usually in the morning, as the northwesterly maistro tends to build from around midday in summer.
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