The southern Ionian is a sea of contrasts packed into a short distance. Kefalonia, the largest of the Ionian islands, faces Ithaca across a narrow strait of sheltered water, with the harbour village of Fiskardo at its northern tip and the white pebble arc of Myrtos on its exposed west coast. Further south, Zakynthos adds the sea caves of Cape Skinari, the cliffs of Keri and Laganas Bay, a national marine park for loggerhead turtles. Here are the harbours, five routes, the 2026 rules and what a skippered day includes.
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Quick answer: Kefalonia, Ithaca and Zakynthos by boat
- Best departure harbour: Fiskardo for Ithaca and the north; Agia Effimia or Sami for the strait; Agios Nikolaos in northern Zakynthos for the Blue Caves.
- Best half day route: Fiskardo across the strait to Kioni on Ithaca, with swim stops in the coves on the way back.
- Best full day route: Fiskardo, Frikes and Kioni, then down the Ithaca coast to Vathi for lunch and back by late afternoon.
- Best months: June and September; late May and early October for quieter harbours.
- What to book ahead: skippered boats for July and August, hotels near Fiskardo and Vathi, and car ferries if you are combining Kefalonia and Zakynthos.
Part of our Greece by Boat series; the Greece yacht charter hub compares the Ionian and the Cyclades.
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Kefalonia is the natural base: four harbours with boats, and Ithaca a short crossing away.
Harbours and marinas: where boats leave from
Kefalonia’s airport lies just south of Argostoli, and Zakynthos airport sits behind Laganas Bay. Ithaca has no airport: you reach it by ferry from Kefalonia or by boat.
- Fiskardo (Kefalonia): the prettiest harbour of the three islands, a village of pastel houses that survived the 1953 earthquake largely intact. Day boats and skippered yachts leave from the quay; in summer ferries run to Frikes and Lefkada. Allow well over an hour by car from Argostoli or the airport.
- Agia Effimia (Kefalonia): a small harbour on the east coast, popular for self drive boats and close to the strait. Good if you stay around Sami or Myrtos.
- Sami (Kefalonia): the island’s main ferry port, with year round crossings to Pisaetos on Ithaca (about 30 minutes) and summer ferries from Bari.
- Argostoli (Kefalonia): the capital, on a deep bay close to the airport. Useful for the south coast.
- Vathi, Kioni and Frikes (Ithaca): Vathi sits at the head of a deep, enclosed bay and is the island’s capital; Kioni and Frikes are small harbours on the north east coast where yachts moor stern to and space is tight in August.
- Zakynthos town (Zakynthos): the main harbour and ferry port, on the east coast.
- Agios Nikolaos (northern Zakynthos): the departure point for the Blue Caves at Cape Skinari and, in summer (typically June to September; check the operator’s timetable), for the ferry to Pessada on Kefalonia (about 1 hour 45 minutes).
Five routes in detail
Times assume a fast motorboat in calm conditions; a sailing yacht needs far longer.
Route 1: Fiskardo to Kioni, half day
From Fiskardo it is a short crossing of the strait to the north east coast of Ithaca, about 20 to 30 minutes by motorboat. Coast past Frikes, then into Kioni bay with its three old windmills on the headland. Swim in the small coves south of Kioni and return along the Kefalonia shore with a final stop at Foki or Emplisi, both pebble coves just outside Fiskardo. Four hours is comfortable.
Route 2: Fiskardo, Ithaca and Vathi, full day
The classic day. Cross to Frikes for coffee, continue to Kioni, then run south down the east coast of Ithaca to Vathi, with a swim stop near Gidaki, a pebble beach reached mainly by boat or a footpath. Lunch at a waterfront taverna in Vathi. Return across the strait to the Kefalonia coast near Agia Effimia and north to Fiskardo, roughly six to eight hours with stops.
Route 3: Fiskardo, Assos and Myrtos, full day
Round the northern tip of Kefalonia and run down the west coast to the Venetian fortress and tiny harbour of Assos, then on to Myrtos, the long white pebble beach below steep cliffs. This coast is exposed to the north westerly, so go on calm mornings only. After rockfalls in July 2026, warning signs went up at Myrtos and civil protection guidance urged caution; experts advised that beaches like this should close after earthquakes or heavy rain, so check the current status locally. Keep away from the cliff foot.
Route 4: Agios Nikolaos to the Blue Caves and Navagio, half day
From Agios Nikolaos it is a short run to Cape Skinari, where the sea arches and caves turn a vivid blue in the morning sun. Swim only where your skipper says it is safe. Continue to Navagio for a view from the water. Under 2026 rules (see below) no one may land, swim or anchor at Navagio, so this is a look from the sea, not a beach stop.
Route 5: Zakynthos town, Marathonisi and Keri, full day
Run south past the Vasilikos peninsula into Laganas Bay, keeping to the park’s permitted zones and speed limit. Marathonisi, the small island in the bay, is itself a turtle nesting beach. Continue to the limestone caves and arches of the Keri coast at the south western tip for swimming, then lunch ashore at the small harbour of Limni Keriou before heading back.
Rules: marine park, Navagio and anchoring in 2026
Rules here change from season to season; read this section before you book.
National Marine Park of Zakynthos
The park was established in 1999 and covers Laganas Bay and its turtle nesting beaches, including Marathonisi and Sekania, along with the Keri wetland; it is part of the Natura 2000 network. At sea it is divided into three zones under its founding decree:
- Zone A: no navigation at all from 1 May to 31 October, the nesting season.
- Zone B: navigation allowed at no more than 6 knots, anchoring prohibited, and the code for observing turtles from a vessel applies.
- Zone C: navigation at no more than 6 knots, anchoring allowed.
Sekania beach is closed to the public. On the nesting beaches, Marathonisi included, visitors may not stay between sunset and sunrise, may not place umbrellas close to the waterline or dig in the sand, and must not use lights at night. The turtle charity ARCHELON has documented collisions with speeding boats in the bay. For current zone boundaries, ask the port authority in Zakynthos town or your skipper. We found no published fee for boat visitors to the park.
Navagio (Shipwreck) beach
Navagio has been unstable since cliff collapses, and a joint ministerial decision for the 2026 season banned landing on the beach, swimming anywhere in the cove and any vessel approaching or anchoring within 50 metres of its shore, valid until 31 October 2026. Rules for the 2027 season had not been published when we checked, so ask the Zakynthos port authority before you go. Visitors may view it only from the cliff top platform, once protective fencing is in place. The measures have been renewed season after season; check the status for your dates with the port police before you plan around Navagio.
Natura 2000, anchoring and swimming zones
- Inner Ionian: the waters east of Ithaca and Kefalonia, towards Atokos and Kalamos, form the Natura 2000 site Inner Ionian Archipelago (GR2220003). Anchor on sand rather than seagrass meadows, and give any monk seal a wide berth.
- Swimming zones: beaches often have buoyed swimming zones and marked approach channels, and boats may not enter the swimming area. Distances and speed limits are set by local port regulations, so check with the skipper or the harbour.
- Mooring in harbours: Fiskardo, Kioni and Frikes are stern to harbours that fill up early in summer. Ask the harbour office for current dues.
- Antiquities: Greek law protects anything of archaeological interest on the seabed: look, never take.
Types of boat and what a skippered charter includes
- Self drive motorboat: small open boats, for pottering along the coast. Under Greek rules, as charter operators apply them, motorboats up to 30 horsepower may be hired without a licence; confirm with the port police.
- RIB or speedboat with skipper: fast and agile, ideal for the Blue Caves and Keri.
- Motor yacht with skipper: shade, a cabin, a toilet, and the range to combine Ithaca and Myrtos in a day.
- Sailing yacht or catamaran: the classic choice for several days through the strait and on to Lefkada.
Usually included in a skippered day: the boat, skipper, insurance, snorkelling gear and soft drinks or water. Often extra: fuel (the big variable on fast boats), lunch ashore, harbour or mooring fees if you stay overnight, a hostess or chef, and transfers. Greece also levies a cruising fee known as TEPAI on recreational vessels over 7 metres; ask whether your quote covers all fees.
Bareboat: the skipper must hold a licence Greek port authorities recognise. Greece has not adopted the UN resolution behind the ICC, but the ICC is generally accepted in practice; a Greek translation may also be needed. Charter bases also commonly require a second experienced crew member. Confirm the current requirements with the Hellenic Coast Guard or your port of departure before you book.
Comparison of routes
| Route | Departure | Duration | Highlights | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fiskardo to Kioni | Fiskardo | About 4 hours | Strait crossing, Frikes, Kioni windmills, Foki | First timers, families |
| Ithaca and Vathi | Fiskardo | 6 to 8 hours | Kioni, Gidaki, lunch in Vathi | Couples, food lovers |
| Assos and Myrtos | Fiskardo | Full day | Assos fortress, west coast cliffs, Myrtos | Calm days only |
| Blue Caves and Navagio | Agios Nikolaos | Half day | Skinari caves, Navagio from the sea | Photographers, swimmers |
| Marathonisi and Keri | Zakynthos town | Full day | Marine park, turtles, Keri caves | Nature lovers |
Best months, winds and practical tips
June and September bring warm water and long days without peak crowds. In July and August harbours fill early and the Blue Caves get busy, so start before nine. In the Ionian the summer wind is the maistro, a north westerly that usually builds through the afternoon and drops in the evening; mornings are typically the calmest time for the exposed west coasts of Kefalonia and Zakynthos. The strait is the most sheltered water here. The stronger meltemi belongs to the Aegean and the Cyclades.
- What to bring: reef safe sun cream, a hat, water shoes and cash for small tavernas.
- Seasickness: take tablets before leaving, sit in the middle of the boat.
- Booking timing: reserve skippered boats for July and August several weeks ahead; for June and September a few days usually suffice.
- Ferries: Sami to Pisaetos on Ithaca runs all year; Fiskardo to Frikes and Pessada to Agios Nikolaos are seasonal. Summer ferries also connect Sami with Bari, so you can arrive from Puglia by sea.
Charlotte’s tip: book the Ithaca day for a weekday morning
Leave Fiskardo by nine, reach Kioni before the flotillas arrive and plan lunch in Vathi early. Keep the west coast for a windless morning.
If you are travelling on from Italy, our guide to Italy to Greece by boat covers the crossing, and Puglia by boat makes a natural first chapter on the Italian side of the Ionian.
Where to stay near the harbours
Emelisse Nature Resort, Fiskardo
Set on Emplisi bay at the northern tip of Kefalonia, with infinity pools, sea access from platforms and a small beach, a spa, tennis and several restaurants. Our research turned up contradictory information on the walk to Fiskardo harbour: the resort’s published FAQ mentions about 10 minutes by a local path, while a travel magazine gives about 25. The resort is seasonal; ask the hotel for 2026 opening dates.
Best for: Ithaca days from Fiskardo.
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F Zeen Kefalonia, Lourdata
On the south coast at Lourdata, with direct access to Lourdas beach and two spas. Booking listings put the airport around 30 minutes away, and Argostoli is the nearest harbour for boat days. It is marketed as adults only, but booking terms indicate guests from 16 are accepted, so confirm the age policy with the hotel. Ask the hotel about seasonal opening.
Best for: couples combining spa days with the south and west coasts.
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Perantzada 1811 Art Hotel, Vathi (Ithaca)
A design hotel on the quieter side of Vathi harbour, a few minutes’ walk from the quay where boats tie up, with sea views from many rooms and a small outdoor pool. Our research turned up contradictory information on its size and season: one hotel directory lists 12 rooms and a closure from December to February, while booking platforms list 17 rooms and year round opening, so confirm room types and 2026 dates with the hotel. Some booking platforms list it as Perantzada Hotel 1811.
Best for: sleeping on Ithaca between days on the water.
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Porto Zante Villas & Spa, Tragaki (Zakynthos)
A small collection of villas with private pools on a private beach at Tragaki on the east coast, about 8 km from the airport, with a waterfront spa. The hotel can arrange private yacht excursions. It is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and closes from November to March.
Best for: privacy and Zakynthos days on the water.
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Compare hotels across Kefalonia, from Fiskardo to Argostoli.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I land on Navagio beach by boat in 2026?
No. For the 2026 season landing, swimming and approaching within 50 metres were banned until 31 October.
Can I take a boat into Laganas Bay?
Yes, outside Zone A, which is closed to all navigation from 1 May to 31 October. Elsewhere in the park the limit is 6 knots, with no anchoring in Zone B.
Which island is the best base?
Fiskardo on Kefalonia for Ithaca; Zakynthos for the Blue Caves and Keri.
Do I need a licence to hire a boat?
Not with a skipper. Small motorboats up to 30 horsepower are commonly hired without one; for a bareboat yacht you need a recognised licence such as the ICC.
