Castello di Spessa is a 13th century castle in the Collio hills of Friuli, a few kilometres from the Slovenian border, with an 18-hole golf course wrapped around it, a wine estate with cellars beneath the manor and a spa in the former stables. Giacomo Casanova stayed here in 1773, and the estate has not let anyone forget it. It is not a polished five-star palace, and it does not pretend to be. My one-line verdict: one of the few places in Italy where you can play golf, taste serious white wine and sleep in a castle without moving the car, at a price well below the Tuscan estates, provided you accept some rough edges.
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Quick facts: Castello di Spessa
- Location: Via Spessa 1, Capriva del Friuli, in the Collio Goriziano wine area, province of Gorizia, Friuli Venezia Giulia.
- Rooms and suites: 15 rooms and suites in the castle (a Residenza d’Epoca), plus around 10 rooms at La Tavernetta al Castello at the foot of the hill and apartments and a farmhouse a few hundred metres away. The estate quotes over 90 beds in total.
- Price level: upper mid-range for an Italian golf and wine resort, clearly below the top Tuscan estates. Rates vary a lot between the castle and the other residences.
- Season: opening dates are not clearly published. Ask the hotel, especially for winter stays.
- Nearest airport: Trieste, roughly 30 minutes by car. Venice and Ljubljana are both around 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes.
- Best for: golfers who love wine, wine lovers who play a little golf, and couples who want a quiet base in the Collio.
Check prices and availability
The castle has only 15 rooms, and weddings take over the estate on some weekends. Check your dates before you plan the rest of the trip.
Location and getting there
Spessa sits on a low hill just outside the village of Capriva del Friuli, in the western part of the Collio, the band of vine-covered hills that runs along the Slovenian border between Gorizia and Cormons. Gorizia is about 10 minutes away. Across the border the same hills continue as the Brda region of Slovenia.
Trieste airport is the closest gateway, about 30 minutes by car according to the regional tourist board. Venice Marco Polo is around 1 hour 30 minutes on the A4 motorway, and Ljubljana in Slovenia is a similar drive. Gorizia station is about 10 minutes by taxi, and the A4 Villesse exit is roughly 7 km away. A car is close to essential here. Our Italy travel planner covers car hire and transfers.
Rooms and suites
Accommodation is spread across several buildings, and the experience differs a lot depending on where you sleep.
- The castle (Residenza d’Epoca): 15 rooms in the manor itself, according to the estate and the regional tourist board: 10 doubles, two junior suites, two suites and a loft. Furnishings mix 18th and early 20th century antiques, with views over the park and the course.
- La Tavernetta al Castello: a country-style hotel and restaurant in a renovated farmhouse at the foot of the castle hill, with roughly 10 rooms (published counts vary). It is rated three stars, so expect comfort rather than grandeur.
- Appartamenti nelle Vigne: apartments among the vineyards, about 400 metres from the castle.
- Casale in Collina: a hillside farmhouse about 600 metres away.
Room categories in the castle run from Classic and Superior doubles to Deluxe rooms, junior suites and suites. A Casanova suite is mentioned in guest reviews; if you want it, ask the hotel directly which room it is and whether it can be guaranteed. Pet policies differ between the castle and the outlying residences, so check before travelling with a dog.
Dining
The estate runs three places to eat and drink, all built around its own wines.
- La Tavernetta al Castello: the main restaurant, in the old farmhouse below the castle. The kitchen combines Friulian tradition with Mediterranean and Central European influences, and there are three dining rooms: the Sala del Caminetto with stone walls and a fireplace, the frescoed Sala degli Affreschi and a veranda overlooking the golf course.
- Hosteria del Castello: the bar and restaurant at the golf club, for lunch between rounds.
- Bistrot Il Gusto di Casanova: a relaxed spot inside the resort for a glass of the estate’s wines and something light.
On Michelin: La Tavernetta al Castello does not appear in the current Michelin Guide listing for Capriva del Friuli and the surrounding area, and I found no star for any of the estate’s restaurants in 2026. The guide currently lists one-star restaurants at La Subida (Trattoria al Cacciatore) in Cormons and L’Argine a Vencò in Dolegna del Collio, plus the two-star Agli Amici at Godia near Udine. Kitchen opening days at the Tavernetta are not clearly published, so ask the hotel which nights it serves dinner during your stay.
Check rates at Castello di Spessa
Wine: the cellars and the estate
Wine is the reason Spessa exists in its current form. The Pali family bought the castle in 1987 and built the wine business around it. According to the regional tourist board, the estate now works around 28 hectares in the Collio DOC and around 70 in the Friuli Isonzo DOC on the plain below, producing about 450,000 bottles a year. Winemaking happens at a separate cellar in Cormons; the castle is where the wine ages.
The ageing cellars are the highlight of any visit. The upper level is medieval, partly dug into the rock, with terracotta floors and brick vaults. Below it, reached by about 70 steps, is a military bunker built in the 1930s and now used for ageing, around 18 metres underground. Red wines age here in barriques.
The Collio is white wine country first, and the estate’s range reflects that. Labels to look for:
- Santarosa Pinot Bianco: the estate’s best-known white and the one to taste first.
- Yellow Hills Ribolla Gialla: the local grape, crisp and citrusy.
- Casanova Pinot Nero and Torriani Merlot: the reds, named after the castle’s history.
- Amadeus Metodo Classico: a traditional method sparkling wine.
Cellar visits and tastings of wine, grappa and honey must be booked in advance, also for hotel guests. If the Collio is new to you, our guide to Italian wine regions puts it in context, and Spessa also fits naturally into a wider trip using our hub of the best vineyard hotels and wine resorts in Italy.
Golf at Castello di Spessa
The Golf & Country Club Castello di Spessa is the reason this estate appears in our guide to the best golf resorts and golf hotels in Italy. The 18-hole course was designed by Giacomo Cabrini in 2005 and runs over gently rolling ground around the castle, between vineyards, olive groves and the park. Scorecard data on golf platforms gives par 71 and roughly 5,460 metres from the forward tees; the club does not publish full yardages clearly online, so ask for the scorecard when you book if length matters to you.
It is a parkland course, playable for mid-handicappers, with the castle and vines in view for much of the round. There is a 20-bay driving range, a putting green, chipping area and practice bunker, plus buggies, trolleys, club hire and lessons with the club professional. One honest caveat: a few guest reviews over the years mention soft or patchy conditions after heavy rain, so in spring and late autumn it is worth asking about course condition before you travel.
Green fee arrangements for hotel guests are not published, so ask the hotel whether a package or reduced fee applies. If you are building a north-east Italy golf trip, the course pairs well with a round on the Venice Lido, covered in our Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido review.
Spa and pools
The Vinum Spa occupies the castle’s former stables at the entrance to the estate and covers about 2,000 m². Its theme is vinotherapy, using grape and wine extracts.
- Pools: an indoor pool with hydromassage, an outdoor pool and a hexagonal outdoor hot tub looking over the vineyards.
- Heat and water: Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, emotional showers, an ice waterfall and a Kneipp path laid with river stones.
- Treatments: wine baths in large vats, grape seed scrubs, massages with grape must or local ponca stones, and a “grappatherapy” that ends with a grappa tasting.
Spa access is usually charged on top of the room rate, and the outdoor pool is a summer facility. Ask the hotel what is included with your room.
What’s nearby
- Collio wineries: dozens of family estates within 20 minutes, many of them leading names in Italian white wine. Book visits ahead.
- Gorizia and Nova Gorica: a border city with a castle, Habsburg architecture and an easy walk into Slovenia.
- Brda, Slovenia: the Slovenian side of the same hills, with hilltop villages and more wineries.
- Aquileia and Cividale del Friuli: two UNESCO World Heritage sites, each well under an hour away.
- Prosecco hills: about two hours west, worth combining on a longer route. See our Prosecco hills wine tours.
Castello di Spessa vs other golf and wine estates
| Hotel | Location | Standout | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Castello di Spessa | Capriva del Friuli, Collio | 18 holes on site, medieval and bunker cellars, Vinum Spa | Golf and white wine on a sensible budget |
| Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco | Montalcino, Tuscany | Private 18-hole Tom Weiskopf course, Brunello winery | Top-tier golf and wine with no compromises |
| Castello Banfi Il Borgo | Montalcino, Tuscany | 14 rooms on a large Brunello estate | Wine lovers who do not need golf |
| Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido | Venice Lido, Veneto | Beach resort with a partner golf club nearby | Combining Venice with a round |
In short: if budget is no issue, Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco is the more luxurious golf and wine estate. Castello di Spessa wins on value, on the novelty of the castle and on the Collio’s white wines, and it is far less crowded.
Who it suits, and who it does not
It suits:
- Golfers who want a course at the door and good wine after the round.
- White wine lovers who want to explore the Collio and Brda in depth.
- Couples looking for a historic, quiet stay with a spa on site.
It does not suit:
- Anyone expecting five-star polish throughout.
- Food lovers who want a Michelin-starred restaurant in-house.
- Travellers without a car.
- Guests who want guaranteed peace on summer weekends, when weddings and events are common.
Charlotte’s tip: sleep in the castle, eat in the Collio
Book a room in the castle itself, not the outlying residences, because the old house is the whole point. Then plan one dinner at La Subida in Cormons, take the bunker cellar tour on your first afternoon and play your round early, when the light over the vines is best.
Practical tips
- Booking: confirm which building your room is in. Some booking platforms list the castle and La Tavernetta al Castello as separate hotels.
- Best rooms to request: a castle suite or junior suite with a view over the park and the course.
- Season: May, June, September and October are ideal for golf and wine. Harvest runs from late August into September. Opening periods are not clearly published, so ask the hotel before planning a winter stay.
- Tastings and tee times: book cellar tours, spa treatments and tee times together with the room.
- Dress: smart casual for dinner, golf attire on the course.
- Kids: the apartments in the vineyards are the practical choice for families. Ask the hotel about cots and children’s access to the spa.
Check prices and availability
Compare castle rooms and suites with the Tavernetta and vineyard apartments, and check whether your dates clash with events on the estate.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Castello di Spessa have its own golf course?
Yes. The 18-hole course, designed by Giacomo Cabrini in 2005, surrounds the castle, with a 20-bay driving range. Golf platforms list it as par 71.
Does the restaurant have a Michelin star?
No. La Tavernetta al Castello is not listed in the current Michelin Guide, but starred restaurants in Cormons and Dolegna del Collio are a short drive away.
What is the connection with Casanova?
Giacomo Casanova stayed at Spessa in 1773. The park, a bistro, a suite and the estate’s Pinot Nero all carry his name.
Which airport is closest to Castello di Spessa?
Trieste, about 30 minutes by car. Venice and Ljubljana are each roughly 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes away.
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