Lake Como Villas and Gardens: Balbianello, Carlotta, Melzi and How to See Them by Boat

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For three centuries, Lake Como has been where Milan’s aristocrats, Napoleonic ministers, Prussian princesses, opera singers and industrialists built their summer houses. They chose the most beautiful promontories and coves, terraced the steep shores into gardens, and filled them with camellias, azaleas, cypresses and statues. Many of those villas are now open to visitors, and touring them by boat is one of the great pleasures of northern Italy.

This guide covers the villas and gardens worth your time, when they look their best, how to reach them by ferry or private boat, and how to combine several in one day without rushing.

Villa del Balbianello, Lenno

Set on the tip of a wooded promontory jutting into the western shore, Villa del Balbianello is the most photographed house on the lake. It was built in the late eighteenth century for Cardinal Angelo Maria Durini as a retreat for literary gatherings. Its last private owner was the explorer and businessman Guido Monzino, who led an Italian expedition to Everest and filled the house with mementoes of his travels, including a small museum of polar and mountaineering equipment. On his death he left the villa to the Italian National Trust.

The terraced garden, with its clipped plane trees, balustrades and a loggia open to the lake on both sides, is one of the most romantic places in Italy. Film fans will recognise it from Star Wars: Episode II and Casino Royale. Access is by boat taxi from Lenno or, on certain days, on foot along a lakeside path. The garden and the house tour are ticketed separately; book a Villa del Balbianello park ticket in advance, as visitor numbers are limited in high season.

Villa Carlotta, Tremezzo

A short ferry ride away, Villa Carlotta rises above a terraced garden facing Bellagio across the water. Built at the end of the seventeenth century for a Milanese marquis, it was later bought by a Prussian princess and given to her daughter Charlotte as a wedding present, which is how it got its name. Inside, the museum displays neoclassical sculpture and painting, including Francesco Hayez’s famous Last Kiss of Romeo and Juliet. Outside, more than eight hectares of gardens are planted with camellias, rhododendrons and, above all, azaleas, which turn the slopes into a blaze of colour in April and May. Allow two hours.

Villa Melzi, Bellagio

On the lakeshore just south of Bellagio, Villa Melzi was built in the early nineteenth century for Francesco Melzi d’Eril, vice-president of Napoleon’s Italian Republic. The house is private, but the gardens are open in the warmer months: an English-style landscape along the water with specimen trees, a small Japanese garden, a chapel and an orangery. It is a gentle walk from the Bellagio ferry and makes a perfect hour before lunch.

Villa Serbelloni gardens, Bellagio

Not to be confused with the grand hotel of the same name on the waterfront, the historic Villa Serbelloni crowns the hill above Bellagio. Its park, with terraces, cypress avenues and views down both arms of the lake, now belongs to an American foundation and can be visited only on guided tours, bookable in Bellagio. Our review of the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni covers the hotel.

Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi, Varenna

On the eastern shore, Varenna is the lake’s most charming village, and two gardens sit side by side along its waterfront. Villa Monastero, a former convent turned aristocratic residence, has a long botanical garden stretching along the lake, with citrus trees, palms and agaves, plus a house museum. Next door, Villa Cipressi is now a hotel, with terraced gardens that run down to the water. Varenna is easily reached by train from Milan or by ferry from Bellagio and Menaggio.

Around Como town: Villa Olmo and Villa d’Este

At the southern end of the lake, the neoclassical Villa Olmo on the edge of Como hosts exhibitions and has a public lakeside park, connected to the town by a pleasant promenade. A few kilometres north in Cernobbio, Villa d’Este is one of the world’s most famous hotels; its gardens are reserved for guests and diners. Read our Villa d’Este review if you are tempted to stay.

Lesser-known villas worth a detour

Beyond the famous names, the lake hides villas that most visitors never see. In Cernobbio, Villa Bernasconi is a jewel of Italian Art Nouveau, built for a silk industrialist and decorated with butterflies, silkworms and mulberry leaves that celebrate the trade that made Como rich; it is now a small museum. Near Como, the park of Villa del Grumello offers quiet lakeside walks among old trees and is part of a footpath linking several historic villas along the shore. On the eastern side near Torno, Villa Pliniana was built around an intermittent spring described by Pliny the Younger nearly two thousand years ago; it has since become an exclusive hotel and event venue, best admired from the water.

Seen from a boat, the whole shoreline reads like a catalogue of styles, from baroque terraces and neoclassical porticoes to romantic Gothic follies and modernist boathouses. Even if you visit only one or two gardens, spend an hour on the water with a guide who can point out who lived where.

What blooms when

The lake’s mild microclimate allows plants from across the world to thrive. March brings camellias and magnolias; April and May the great displays of azaleas and rhododendrons, especially at Villa Carlotta; June roses, jasmine and hydrangeas; and autumn the gold and red of maples and plane trees reflected in the water.

Lake Como villas at a glance

Villa	Highlights	Best season	How to visit
Villa del Balbianello	Promontory setting, loggia, film location	April to October	Park ticket
Villa Carlotta	Azaleas, Hayez, neoclassical sculpture	April and May	Ferry to Tremezzo
Villa Melzi	Lakeside English garden	Spring and summer	Walk from Bellagio ferry
Villa Serbelloni park	Views of both lake arms	Spring to autumn	Guided tours only
Villa Monastero	Botanical garden, house museum	Spring to autumn	Train to Lake Como
Several villas in one day	Como, Bellagio, Varenna by boat	Spring to autumn	Small-group tour from Milan
Private boat day	Lake Como, Bellagio and Lugano	Spring to autumn	Private boat cruise

A perfect villa day

Base yourself in the central lake, where the ferries link Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio and Tremezzo every half hour or so in season. Start with Villa del Balbianello at opening, take the ferry from Lenno to Tremezzo for Villa Carlotta, cross to Bellagio for lunch and Villa Melzi, and end with an aperitivo in Varenna as the sun sets behind the western mountains. A day ticket for the central lake ferries makes this simple. For a more private experience, hire a boat with a skipper; our guide to Lake Como boat tours compares the options, and yacht charter on Lake Como covers classic Riva launches.

When to go

Most villas open from late March to early November and close in winter. April and May are the most spectacular months, with camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons in flower and fewer crowds than in summer. September and October bring softer light, warm water and the colours of autumn. July and August are lovely but busy, especially at weekends; book tickets and boats ahead.

Getting there and staying

Lake Como is about an hour from Milan by train or car. From Malpensa, a private transfer with Welcome Pickups can take you directly to your lakeside hotel. For where to stay, see our guides to Lake Como luxury hotels and our Lake Como travel guide. On a day trip, our Lake Como day trip from Milan explains the logistics, and if you want to continue into the Alps, the Bernina Express leaves from nearby Tirano.

Hotels around Bellagio and the central lake

Bellagio, Tremezzo and Varenna are the best bases for a villa trip, because the ferries between the three villages reach Villa Melzi, Villa Carlotta, Balbianello and Villa Monastero in minutes. The map below shows current hotel availability and prices around Bellagio.

FAQ

Which Lake Como villa is the most beautiful?
Villa del Balbianello for setting, Villa Carlotta for gardens and art. Ideally, see both.

Can I visit Villa del Balbianello without a boat?
On certain days a lakeside footpath from Lenno is open. Otherwise, boat taxis run from the Lenno landing.

How many villas can I see in a day?
Three is comfortable, four is possible with good ferry connections and an early start.

Are the villas open in winter?
Most close from November to March. Check the opening dates before planning an off-season visit.

Is it worth staying on the lake rather than in Milan?
Yes. Spending at least one night lets you see the villas without the day-tripper crowds and enjoy the lake at dusk.