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Few train journeys in the world compress so much drama into a single day. Leave Milan in the morning, run along the eastern shore of Lake Como, climb through the vineyard terraces of the Valtellina, and at the little border town of Tirano step onto a bright red train that hauls itself over the Alps, past glaciers and turquoise lakes, to the glamorous resort of St Moritz. By evening you can be back in Milan for dinner.
This guide explains how the Bernina line works, whether to book a tour or go independently, which side of the train to sit on, and how to turn the trip into a longer escape with a night in St Moritz and a detour for Valtellina wine.
Quick answer
The easiest option is the Lake Como and St Moritz day tour from Milan with the Bernina red train, which handles all the connections. Independent travellers take a regional train from Milano Centrale to Tirano, then the Bernina line to St Moritz. Carry your passport, and reserve seats on the panoramic Bernina Express well ahead in summer.
What makes the Bernina line special
The railway over the Bernina Pass opened in 1910, built to bring tourists from St Moritz into the Valtellina. Instead of using a rack, its engineers designed a line steep enough for ordinary wheels: gradients of up to seven per cent make it one of the steepest adhesion railways in the world. Together with the neighbouring Albula line, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, praised as a masterpiece of mountain railway engineering that sits in harmony with the landscape.
Highlights along the way include the circular viaduct of Brusio, where the track spirals around itself in a stone loop to gain height; Alp Grüm, with its view down to the Palü glacier; the highest point at Ospizio Bernina, above 2,200 metres, beside the milky blue-green Lago Bianco; and the descent past the Morteratsch glacier into the Engadine valley. The journey from Tirano to St Moritz takes a little over two hours.
Bernina Express or regional train?
Two kinds of train use the line. The Bernina Express has panoramic carriages with windows that curve up into the roof, a seat reservation and an audio commentary. The regional trains of the Rhaetian Railway run the same route more often, with ordinary carriages and windows that sometimes open, which photographers love. The views are identical; the comfort and the price are not. In high summer, Bernina Express seats sell out, so book as soon as your dates are fixed.
For the best views heading north from Tirano, most travellers prefer the right-hand side of the train for the lakes and glaciers in the upper section, though the line twists so much that both sides get their moments.
Getting to Tirano from Milan
Regional trains run from Milano Centrale to Tirano in roughly two and a half hours. After Lecco the line hugs the eastern shore of Lake Como, passing Varenna, before turning inland up the Valtellina. Sit on the left side heading north for the lake views. Tirano itself is small: the Italian and Swiss stations stand side by side, and the Rhaetian trains roll right through the streets of the town and past the pilgrimage church of the Madonna di Tirano.
If you would rather not juggle connections, the day tour from Milan with the Bernina red train combines transport, the train ride and time in St Moritz. For a more relaxed lake day instead, the Como, Bellagio and Varenna small-group tour with boat cruise or a simple one-way train transfer to Lake Como are good alternatives.
The Valtellina: Alpine Nebbiolo
The Valtellina is one of Italy’s most extraordinary wine regions, and you pass straight through it. On the steep south-facing slopes above the Adda river, vines grow on thousands of kilometres of dry-stone terraces built over centuries. The grape is Nebbiolo, known locally as Chiavennasca, the same variety behind Barolo, but here it makes lighter, more perfumed reds. Look for Valtellina Superiore from the subzones of Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella, and Sforzato di Valtellina, made from partially dried grapes in the style of Amarone. Pair them with bresaola, the local air-dried beef, and pizzoccheri, buckwheat pasta baked with cabbage, potatoes and cheese.
With a car, you can stop at wineries around Sondrio and Tirano; hire one in Milan through Localrent. Our guide to Lake Como wine covers the Valtellina in more detail.
St Moritz: glamour in the Engadine
St Moritz claims to have invented winter tourism in 1864, when a hotelier bet his English summer guests that they would enjoy the valley in winter. It has hosted the Winter Olympics twice, in 1928 and 1948, and remains one of the most glamorous resorts in the Alps, with grand hotels, designer boutiques on Via Serlas, and in winter polo, horse racing and cricket on the frozen lake. In summer the lake is perfect for walks and sailing, and cable cars climb to Muottas Muragl and Corviglia for sweeping views over the Engadine lakes.
On a day trip you will have around two hours, enough for a walk around the lake and lunch. Better still, stay a night: the evening light on the mountains and the empty trains the next morning are worth it.
Where to stay in St Moritz
If you turn the day trip into an overnight stay, St Moritz has some of the most storied hotels in the Alps. Badrutt’s Palace, with its turreted tower above the lake, has been the resort’s social centre since the end of the nineteenth century. The Kulm Hotel belongs to the family whose winter wager launched the resort, and stands beside the start of the famous Cresta Run toboggan track. Suvretta House, set apart in its own grounds with ski-in, ski-out access in winter, is the quieter choice for families. For something more relaxed, the villages of Pontresina and Celerina, a short train ride away, offer lovely smaller hotels and easy access to glacier walks.
Book early for the peak seasons, roughly Christmas to March and July to August, and expect minimum stays in some hotels. In late spring and late autumn many hotels close for a few weeks between seasons, so check before planning a trip in April, May or November.
Bernina day trip at a glance
| Option | What it includes | Best for | Book |
|---|---|---|---|
| Guided day tour from Milan | Transport, Lake Como, Bernina red train, St Moritz | First-timers, no stress | Day tour |
| Independent by train | Milan to Tirano, Bernina line to St Moritz | Flexibility, overnight stays | Rail tickets |
| Self-drive | Valtellina wineries, Bernina Pass road | Wine lovers, photographers | Car hire |
| Lake Como day | Como, Bellagio, Varenna with boat | A gentler alternative | Small-group tour |
| Villa del Balbianello | Lake Como’s most famous villa garden | Garden lovers | Park ticket |
| Mobile data in Switzerland | Switzerland is outside EU roaming rules | Everyone | Airalo / Saily |
Practical tips
- Bring your passport. Switzerland is in the Schengen area, but it is not in the EU customs union, and checks happen.
- Currency. Switzerland uses Swiss francs. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, and many places accept euros at a poor rate.
- Roaming. EU roaming rules do not apply in Switzerland. An eSIM with Swiss coverage avoids surprise charges.
- Season. The line runs all year. Summer brings lakes and wildflowers, winter deep snow and frozen lakes. Both are spectacular.
- Clothing. Even in summer it can be cold at the top. Bring a warm layer.
Combine it with Lake Como and Milan
The Bernina makes a natural extension to a stay on Lake Como. Spend a few days by the water, using our guides to Lake Como luxury hotels, Lake Como boat tours and a Lake Como day trip from Milan, then head into the mountains. Back in the city, see Milan and Milan for design and fashion lovers. Arriving at Malpensa, a private transfer with Welcome Pickups takes you to Milan or straight to the lake.
Charlotte’s pick
If I could recommend only one thing here, it would be the Lake Como and St Moritz day tour with the Bernina red train. It takes care of every connection, so you can simply enjoy the glaciers, the Brusio viaduct and the turquoise lakes from the window.
FAQ
Can I do the Bernina Express as a day trip from Milan?
Yes. It is a long day of around twelve hours, but very achievable by train or on an organised tour.
Do I need to book the Bernina Express?
Seat reservations are mandatory on the Bernina Express and sell out in summer. Regional trains on the same line need no reservation.
Which is better, summer or winter?
Summer for green valleys and the glacier lakes, winter for snow-covered landscapes. Both are beautiful; winter days are shorter.
Is the Valtellina worth a stop?
For wine lovers, absolutely. The terraced vineyards and Nebbiolo wines are unique, and lunch in a Valtellina trattoria is a highlight.
How long is the journey from Tirano to St Moritz?
A little over two hours, covering one of the most scenic stretches of railway in Europe.
For the lake’s most beautiful houses, see our guide to Lake Como villas and gardens.
