Varenna is arguably the prettiest village on the eastern shore of Lake Como, and the Hotel Royal Victoria sits right in the middle of it: one façade on Piazza San Giorgio, the other on a garden that runs down to the water, with Bellagio straight across the lake. It is a historic four-star with 43 rooms, a fine dining restaurant listed in the Michelin Guide, an outdoor pool and a private spa suite, run by the Italian group R Collection Hotels. My one-line verdict: one of the most charming and practical bases on the lake if you want to walk everywhere and arrive by train, as long as you are not expecting the scale or service of a grand palace hotel.
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Quick facts: Hotel Royal Victoria, Varenna
- Location: Piazza San Giorgio 2, in the historic centre of Varenna, on the eastern shore of Lake Como, province of Lecco.
- Rooms and suites: 43 in total, made up of 39 rooms and 4 junior suites, split between square view and lake view categories.
- Price level: upper mid-range to high for Lake Como, well below the big palace hotels on the western shore. Lake view rooms cost noticeably more than piazza view rooms.
- Season: no fixed 2026 closing dates were published in the sources we checked. Ask the hotel if you plan to travel between November and March.
- Nearest airports: Milan Linate and Lugano, each a little over an hour by car; Milan Malpensa around 1 hour 40 minutes. Trains from Milan take just over an hour.
- Best for: couples, foodies and travellers without a car who want to be in the heart of a lake village.
Check prices and availability
With only 43 rooms, the lake view categories fill quickly from May to September. Compare dates before you commit.
Location and getting there
The Royal Victoria could hardly be more central. The front door opens onto Piazza San Giorgio, with its parish church and cafés, and the back of the hotel looks over a lakeside garden with a wisteria pergola and its own small pier. The ferry landing, the lakeside walkway and the gardens of Villa Monastero are all a short stroll away, and the station of Varenna-Esino is a few minutes uphill on foot.
The building has a long history. It started life as a mill, became a hotel in the 19th century and takes its name from Queen Victoria, who is said to have stayed here early in her reign.
Getting here is refreshingly easy by Lake Como standards. Direct regional trains from Milan reach Varenna in just over an hour, which makes this one of the few luxury addresses on the lake where you genuinely do not need a car. By road, booking platforms list around 64 minutes from Lugano airport, about 69 minutes from Milan Linate and around 1 hour 40 minutes from Milan Malpensa; Bergamo Orio al Serio is another option. The hotel can arrange a paid transfer on request. From Varenna, frequent passenger ferries cross to Bellagio and Menaggio in minutes, and a car ferry links the three towns.
Still comparing shores? Our guide on where to stay on Lake Como explains why the Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio triangle suits first-time visitors.
Rooms and suites
There are 43 rooms over three floors, a manageable size that keeps the hotel feeling personal. Some piazza view rooms are painted in plum or Champagne tones, and all have air conditioning, Wi-Fi, a safe and a minibar.
- Classic Borgo View: around 25 m², facing the piazza. The best value.
- Deluxe Lago View: the entry lake view category. Expect a compact room, around 20 m² according to one tour operator, but with the view over the water to Bellagio.
- Prestige Lago View: around 25 m², with a furnished balcony over the lake. For most couples this is the sweet spot.
- Junior Suites: four in total, with a seating area, a bathtub and a separate chromotherapy shower. Some have a lake view balcony. The main upgrade over Prestige is space rather than view.
Not every lake view room has a balcony, so if outdoor space matters, ask for it specifically when booking. Piazza view rooms can hear the village and the church bells.
Dining
Food is a real strength here, and the reason many guests choose the Royal Victoria over other small hotels in Varenna. Chef Francesco Sarno, originally from Campania, oversees the kitchens. His background includes Michelin-starred kitchens such as Capri Palace and Castello di Spaltenna.
- Visteria: the fine dining restaurant, named after the wisteria that covers the pergola. Around 28 covers in a dining room with stained glass, plus a terrace looking towards Bellagio. Modern Italian cooking with Mediterranean ingredients, à la carte or as tasting menus, including a vegetarian menu. In 2024, published prices started at about 110 euros for four courses; check current prices before you go.
- Victoria Grill: the relaxed restaurant on the piazza, with tables outside, serving lunch, dinner and pizza.
- Giardino: the daytime garden restaurant and bar by the lake, from late morning to early evening, for light lunches and spritzes under the vines.
On Michelin status: Visteria appears in the Michelin Guide in 2026 as a recommended restaurant, without a star. Opening days are worth checking: earlier press reports said Visteria closes on Tuesdays, while more recent listings show it open daily, so confirm with the hotel when you book your table.
Check rates at Hotel Royal Victoria
Spa and pools
The outdoor pool is the hotel’s quiet trump card: it faces the lake and the mountains, drinks are served poolside, and tour operators describe the Royal Victoria as the only hotel in Varenna with a pool.
Our research turned up contradictory information on the pool season: one regional listing gives May to September, a major booking platform says June to September, and one travel guide even describes a heated pool open all year. It was not clear to us which applies to your dates, so confirm with the hotel before you book if a swim is important to you.
There is no large spa. Instead, the hotel has a Spa Suite: a private wellness room booked for exclusive use, usually by couples, with a Finnish sauna, a steam bath, multi-sensory showers and a relaxation area. Book the suite in advance, as there is only one, and note that at least one booking platform says guests under 18 are not admitted. If you are looking for a full spa with an indoor pool, this is not the right hotel.
Guests also have access to the terraced botanical gardens of Villa Cipressi next door, a sister property in the same group, lovely early in the morning.
Sport and activities
The Royal Victoria has no tennis court, golf course or gym listed in the sources we checked, so think of it as a base for activities on and around the lake rather than a sports hotel.
Golf
From Varenna, the nearest course is Golf Club Lecco at Annone di Brianza, an 18-hole course roughly 40 minutes south by car. The other option is the Golf Club Menaggio e Cadenabbia on the western shore, around 35 minutes away using the car ferry across the lake and a short drive uphill. We compare the east shore with the other golf bases in our guide to golf hotels on Lake Como, and our overview of golf courses on Lake Como covers each club in more detail. The hotel does not publish golf packages or partner green fees, so ask the hotel or the concierge to book tee times for you.
Boats and the lake
The private pier means boats can pick you up at the hotel. Private tours to Bellagio or Villa del Balbianello can be arranged, and the public ferries are the cheapest way to see the lake. Ask the hotel about current private boat partners and prices.
Walking
Walk up to Castello di Vezio or along stretches of the Sentiero del Viandante, the historic footpath on the eastern shore. Bring proper shoes.
What’s nearby
- Villa Monastero: a former convent turned villa with long lakeside gardens, a few minutes’ walk from the hotel.
- Castello di Vezio: a medieval watchtower above Varenna with wide lake views.
- Bellagio: a short ferry ride across the water for shopping, Villa Melzi’s gardens and the grand old hotels. See our Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni review.
- Menaggio and Tremezzina: on the western shore, with Villa Carlotta and the Menaggio golf club. Our Grand Hotel Victoria Menaggio review and Grand Hotel Tremezzo review cover that side of the lake.
Royal Victoria vs other Lake Como hotels
| Hotel | Location | Standout | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hotel Royal Victoria | Varenna, eastern shore | Village centre setting, pool, Michelin-listed Visteria, train access | Couples and travellers without a car |
| Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni | Bellagio, central lake | Classic palace hotel, pool and beach club, Relais & Châteaux | Old-school grand hotel lovers |
| Grand Hotel Tremezzo | Tremezzina, western shore | 77 rooms, several pools, Menaggio golf 15 to 20 minutes away | Families and golfers who want a full resort |
In short: Villa Serbelloni and Grand Hotel Tremezzo are the full luxury experience, with prices to match. The Royal Victoria is smaller, simpler and more affordable, and wins on its village location and easy rail access.
Who it suits, and who it does not
It suits:
- Couples who want a romantic, walkable village base with a lake view balcony.
- Food lovers who want a serious dinner without leaving the hotel.
- Travellers arriving by train from Milan, with no wish to drive the lake roads.
It does not suit:
- Anyone expecting the space, park and staff ratio of a five-star palace hotel.
- Spa lovers who want an indoor pool and a full treatment menu.
- Tennis players and golfers who want facilities on site.
- Those who need total quiet: Varenna is busy with day visitors in summer.
Charlotte’s tip: book the balcony, then enjoy the village after dark
Book a Prestige Lago View room with a balcony rather than a junior suite: the view is the same and the balcony is what you will remember. Then plan at least one evening in Varenna itself. Once the day trippers leave, the village goes quiet, and dinner at Visteria followed by a lakeside walk is Varenna at its best.
Practical tips
- Booking: reserve Visteria and the Spa Suite when you book the room, as both have very limited capacity.
- Best rooms to request: Prestige Lago View for a balcony over the lake, a lake view junior suite for more space, Classic Borgo View if budget matters more than the view.
- Season: May, June and September offer the best balance of weather and crowds. Confirm whether the hotel is open if you plan a winter visit.
- Getting around: skip the hire car. Parking in Varenna is scarce, and the train and ferries cover almost everything. Ask the hotel about parking if you do drive.
- Kids: our research turned up contradictory information: one booking platform says guests under 18 are not admitted, while other listings mention children over three and a babysitting service. Ask the hotel before booking with children.
- Pets: pets are welcome according to one travel guide, possibly for a fee. Confirm in advance.
Check prices and availability
Compare piazza view and lake view rooms and check which rates include breakfast or half board.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Hotel Royal Victoria in Varenna have a pool?
Yes, an outdoor pool facing the lake, and it is described as the only hotel pool in Varenna. Sources disagree on the season, so ask the hotel which months it is open.
Does the hotel have a Michelin-starred restaurant?
No star. Its fine dining restaurant, Visteria, led by chef Francesco Sarno, is listed in the 2026 Michelin Guide as a recommended restaurant.
How do I get to the Royal Victoria from Milan?
Take a direct train from Milan to Varenna-Esino, just over an hour, then walk a few minutes downhill. By car, allow about 70 minutes from Linate and around 1 hour 40 minutes from Malpensa.
Is Hotel Royal Victoria good for golfers?
It works as a base, but there is no golf on site. Golf Club Lecco is about 40 minutes away, and Menaggio is reachable via the car ferry. Ask the hotel to arrange tee times.
Planning more Lake Como trips?
